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BEFORE AND AFTER: THE ENGLISH GARDEN

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Before and Afters are an effective tool to help gardeners  see the possibilities for transformations in their own garden spaces. This B and A  takes me back several years to a memorable collaboration with Ben and Loretta English.  Ben and Loretta, who have great insight and taste, brought out the best in all of those who renovated the Englishes’ gardens and they were an absolute  delight to work with.

THE FRONT YARD

The front renovation began with a focus on the front door.  Loretta, who has a keen eye for design and a great sense of scale and proportion, felt that the front entrance needed a stronger presence to balance the facade, and so framed the door with a deeper coved hood.  Taking a cue from this enhancement, we  took the opportunity to add a broad, generous landing and a  U-shaped drive to further open up the entry.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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The landing is paved with select bluestone in a stacked stone herringbone pattern, and bordered by brick.  A small boxwood hedge (Buxus ‘Justin Brouwer’) and Small Periwinkle (Vinca minor) frame the landing.

Planting a U drive’s island can be tricky.  Rarely is the island on axis with the front door. Here, we planted an S curved laurel hedge (Prunus laurocerasus ‘Otto Luyken’), the apex of one curve in line with the center of the front door, with sweeps of hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Nikko Blue’) nestled in the curves.  On the street side, we planted a ground plane of pachysandra (Pachysandra terminals).

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We paved the driveway in brown crusher run and edged the driveway in cobblestone, with a cobblestone apron at the street’s entrance.

To make way for the drive, we removed a  a magnolia, and added a brick wall to hide the service and parking area.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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We softened the edges of the house by planting Crapemyrtles (Lagerstroemia indica ‘Natchez’) on the two corners of the house. We kept the foundation planting simple, with a mass of evergreen Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis), Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides ‘Frostproof’), and Camellia sasanqua. White Dawn climbing rose drapes over the new wall.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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On the east side, we separated the foundation plantings from those along the east side of the  driveway with a stepping stone path.  We loosened up the plant palette with Oak Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Prague Viburnum (Viburnum pragense), Variegated Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum odoratum variegatum)  and ferns.  We planted Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum) at each entrance to the driveway.

THE BACKYARD

We had a lot of fun in the back.  The Englishes had decided to add a pool, and Ben asked whether we could use the excavated dirt to add elevation to the garden.  Well.  That was music to my ears.  I LOVE to use the slightest grade change as an opportunity to add  garden elements such as walls and steps.   These features transform a garden, giving it structure, definition and depth, and it drove  the design for the Englishes’ backyard.

We divided the garden into three north-south sections, and then within those sections created several distinct spaces.  The gardens are arranged using strong axial lines, both north-south and east-west, so that each space beckons from another.

The East Section

The pool and  pool house were placed in the furtherest east section, and we left it the same grade as the house, as we needed to tie in circulation with little room to maneuver. We used select bluestone in a diamond pattern for the pool terrace, and edged it with brick, to complement the brick house.

BEFORE:

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DURING:

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AFTER:

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The steps between the pool terrace and the raised garden are wide and expansive, with deep bluestone treads and short  stacked-stone risers.  Small periwinkle (Vinca minor) softens the hardscape and Russian Sage  (Perovskia atriplicifolia ‘Little Spike’) spills over the stacked stone wall.

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A view toward the pool house from the central garden lawn.

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Standing on the pool terrace looking north toward the house.  We added a stepping stone path, with grass joints, to lead from the pool to the central courtyard. 

The Central Section

The central garden is divided into a lower and an upper garden.  The lower garden is a formal courtyard, which acts as the  central hub, connecting the pool, the garage, the upper garden, and the arbored terrace.

BEFORE:

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The beloved Brewster.

DURING:

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AFTER:

img_2731The new brick garage (which replaced the wood shed) and brick wall provide a sense of enclosure for the backyard. The planting beds are edged in brick in what I call a Gillette border.

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Looking east,  toward the pool.  The central parterre is edged in Boxwood (Buxus ‘Justin Brouwer’), and filled with tulips in spring and Catmint (Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’ ) in late spring, summer and fall.

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Looking south, toward the upper lawn, above.   The stacked stone retaining walls and broad bluestone steps are centered on one sweeping shallow radius.   Loretta found the gorgeous urn, perfect in scale and patina, to place on the central axis.

Running with Ben’s idea to use the excavated pool dirt to create elevation, we built stone walls on three sides to create a raised lawn and borders, about three feet above the otherwise very flat grade.  Gently arced steps frame the upper garden and lead to the central courtyard.  The upper garden’s expansive central lawn is flanked by perennial borders, and punctuated by an allee of Winterking Hawthorn. The Hawthorns’ branches are covered in red berries in fall and winter. Steps lead to the pool to the east, and to the informal garden and garage to the west.

BEFORE:

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DURING:

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AFTER:

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Looking south along the central axis of the garden, toward the terminus bordered by existing American Hollies (Ilex opaca).  We added Limelight Hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’) flanked by Chastetree (Vitex agnus-castus).  Loretta found the rustic bench, and we placed it at the south end of the lawn.

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Looking south west, from the pool terrace.  Along this same axis are steps that bisect with the tuteur and lead to the more informal west garden and the garage.

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Looking northeast, the perennial border in full bloom with Siberian Iris (Iris siberica ‘Caesar’s Brother’), Catmint (Nepeta x ‘Walker’s Low’), Peonies (Paeonia latifolia), and False Indigo (Baptisia australis).

The West Section

The west section was divided into three spaces.  First, the Englishes replaced a small shed with a 2 story garage. We placed an irregular stepping stone path parallel to the garage, where it terminates at a wood tuteur planted with Confederate Jasmine  (Trachelospermum jasminoides). To the east of the tuteur are steps that lead to the upper lawn and continue to the pool. To the west is a path to the informal garden, where we filled the planting beds with the plants we dug up during the renovation.

BEFORE:

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The Englishes had little screen from their neighbors, above, and from the parking area, below, before  the renovation.

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DURING:

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AFTER:

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The stepping stone path leads to the nexus of the entrances to the central upper garden on the left, and the informal garden, on the right, which can be seen in the background.

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The iron grillwork that Loretta found at Caravati’s softens the brick facade of the garage.  White Dawn climbing rose are supported by the ironwork.  The  silver foliage of Lamb’s Ears (Stachys byzantina ‘Silver Carpet’) and Bearded Iris (Iris germanica) play off the cool colors of the stone.  Ben installed “temporary” fencing to protect the garden from their puppy’s shenanigans.

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Spirea (Spiraea japonica ‘Anthony Waterer’) spills over the path from the tuteur to the informal garden.

The Englishes have generously shared their renovated garden with many, hosting their kids’ teammates and friends and opening for garden tours benefitting the community. Their vision and beautiful taste shaped the garden, and our collaboration with the talented and hard-working  masons, carpenters, general contractors and, most especially, the late great landscaper William Lowe, ensured that the plans were faithfully and skillfully executed, resulting in a well-loved garden.

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Many of the AFTER photographs (the good ones — you can tell the difference!) used in this blog were taken by the uber-talented Helen Horsley.

MY (ROUGHLY) TEN FAVORITE DROUGHT TOLERANT PLANTS

It’s been a tough summer and fall for thirsty plants. As a gardener with no irrigation, I’m acutely aware of rainfall accumulation.  My rain gauge has been a lonely instrument this year.  Richmond is more than 8 inches below its normal annual rainfall.

One of the few benefits of no irrigation is that I observe over a long period of time how different plants react to drought. Over the last several years, I’ve developed a list of plants that I personally consider extremely drought tolerant.  These are plants in my yard that pretty much never get hit by the sprinkler.

Before I roll out my list, I must stress one very important caveat:  EVERY PLANT needs water to get established.  The first year is the most crucial, but the second is also important. Observation is the key.  When you are responsible for dragging a hose around your yard in periods without much rain, you get to know your plants really well.  Take note in the years after planting to see when the “drought tolerant” plants begin to hold their own in dry periods.  Then you will know that they’ve earned their drought tolerant status.

So here they are:  the slightly more than 10 most draught-tolerant plants in my garden :

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Japanese Anemone (Anemone japonica ‘Honorine Jobert’)

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Limelight Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight).  H. paniculata ‘Tardiva’ is also draught tolerant.  These are exceptions to the genus Hydrangea, which otherwise requires significant hydration (thus the name).

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Catmint (Nepeta ‘Walkers Low’)

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Hosta (here ‘Frances Williams) and Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum odoratum variegatum)

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Camellia — both Sasanqua (fall/winter blooming) and Japanese (late winter/spring blooming).  Spring blooming Camellia needs some shade to stay drought tolerant.

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Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis) and Boxwood (Buxus, generally)

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Peony (Paeonia).

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Poet’s Laurel (Danae racemosa)

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Pieris (Pieris japonica ‘Purity’).  Takes awhile to get established, then completely self-sufficient.

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Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)

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EARLY SPRING GARDEN CHORES

For those restless gardeners who, like me, are checking their gardens daily for signs of life, grab your pruners and head outside, because it’s time to:

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Magnolia denudata (Butterfly Magnolia)

Cut back Liriope with the lawn mower or string trimmer.

Cut back to the ground any Lenten Rose  or Christmas Rose (Helleborus genus) leaves that are browning or leathery.

New growth and flowers should already be emerging.

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Helleborus niger (Christmas Rose)

Prune to about 2 inches high all perennials not cut back in fall.

Exceptions: cut back Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage) to about 6 inches, cut back Salvia microphylla/greggii (very similar, often confused)  to about 4 inches.  These are both woody perennials.

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A perennial bed at Cheekwood Garden in Nashville

DO NOT cut back Tree Peonies!  They bloom on old growth.

Remove dead and discolored Stachys byzantina foliage (Lamb’s Ears).

Prune ornamental grasses all the way back.

Don’t prune before early March, since the winter color and movement are two of their best features.

Exception:  Try raking, rather than pruning, Muhly Grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris), for thicker new growth.

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Ornamental grasses along the High Line in New York City

Prune dying leaves of evergreen ferns (many of the fronds still look great — I can’t usually bring myself to cut these just yet).

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Dryopteris erythrosora (Autumn Fern) fiddlers emerge alongside Digitalis grandiflora (Foxglove)

 HYDRANGEAS

Prune Annabelle Hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens), if you did not do so in the fall. by cutting back all branches to 6-12 inches high.

Unlike the Mophead Hydrangeas, Annabelles bloom on new wood.

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Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’

You can still prune the everblooming Hydrangeas, as they bloom on new and old wood (you will be cutting out some of the flowering buds that have set on the old wood).

You can also prune Hydrangea paniculata now (includes Pee Gee, Limelight, Tardiva cultivars).

LIMELIGHT:  If you want a full, bushy plant, cut back Limelights to about 2 or 3 feet every spring. Also prune all the little spindly branchlets.  If you are training your Limelight into a tree, then merely thin the weaker branches.

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Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’

TARDIVA: Tardiva has a much nicer growth habit than Limelight and Pee Gee. It naturally grows into a tapering multi-branched small tree. To maintain the multi-branch form, just deadhead last year’s flower heads and any small spindly branches that detract from the form you are trying to attain.

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Hydrangea paniculata ‘Tardiva’

You may snap off last year’s flower heads of old-fashioned Mopheads, Lacecaps and Oak Leaf Hydrangeas, and you may cut out the oldest unproductive branches, but do not give these Hydrangeas an overall haircut right now.  They bloom on old wood.

Work aluminum sulphate into the soil in which blue Hydrangea are growing, to make the blooms bluer.  Add lime to make the blooms pinker.

OTHER SHRUBS AND TREES

Prune Buddleia davidii (Butterfly Bush) to about 2  feet and remove spindly and dead branches, if you want a full bushy plant.  If you want a  Butterfly Bush that resembles a small multi-trunk tree, only cut out straggly branches. Prune the dwarf Buddleias to about 2 feet wide and one foot tall.

Cut back Caryopteris x clandonensis (Bluebeard) to about 18 inches.

Caryopteris x clandonensis 'Longwood Blue'

Caryopteris x clandonensis ‘Longwood Blue’

Prune Callicarpa (Beautyberry) to about 6 inches.

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Callicarpa americana (American Beautyberry) growing wild at Jamestown

Prune Sasanqua Camellias (fall and early winter blooming Camellias) now, only if needed to shape or reduce size.

“Pinch” or hand prune Boxwood to thin and open up the plant.  This allows light and air inside so that the plant can produce leaves along the interior surfaces. This is especially important to protect the Boxwood from Boxwood Blight.  The Virginia Coopertative Extension Service, North Carolina State University and Saunders Brothers Nursery are good resources for keeping up with the latest on the blight.  If planting Boxwood, be sure to ask your landscaper or the nursery whether the Boxwood come from a nursery that adheres to the Boxwood Blight Cleanliness Program.

If your Poet’s Laurel (Danae racemosa) has not been pruned in a few years, cut it back to the ground.  Poet’s Laurel produces new growth from the earth, not from other branches.  You can continue to do the full cut back (the Frank Cut) every spring; you can do the Frank cut every 2 or 3 springs; or you can just cut out the oldest third of growth every spring.

DO NOT prune any spring-flowering shrubs or trees until after they bloom!  Exception:  Dead or diseased branches can always be removed.

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Camellia Japonica blooms in late winter or spring, depending on the cultivar. It should not be pruned until after it finishes blooming.

Prune Vitex agnus-castus (Chastetree) by cutting suckers back to the ground or back to the intersection with a larger branch.  Remove some large branches to provide a nice, open shape to the small tree/shrub.  You can also cut Vitex way back, if it has gotten out of control.

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Vitex agnus-castus (Chastetree)

DO NOT COMMIT CRAPE MAIMING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Topping Crape Myrtles does nothing except disfigure the tree.  Feel free to thin Crapes now, by cutting out weaker branches and sprouts.  See my earlier post for more information on proper Crapemyrtle pruning.

ROSES

Prune Shrub Roses to about 12 to 18 inches.  Make cuts about a quarter of an inch above an outward facing bud.  Also remove any branches with diameter less than a pencil, and any diseased or dead branches.

Prune Climbing Roses.  Cut out all dead and diseased canes, any crossing  or spindly  canes and some of the oldest (increasingly less productive) canes. Tie the branches to your support.

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‘White Dawn’ Climbing Rose

Begin feeding roses every six weeks throughout the growing season.  While I generally avoid fertilizing plants unless they are showing signs of deficiency, roses are an exception because they are gluttonous feeders.

 OTHER CHORES

Work compost into the soil to keep it healthy and provide a source of nutrition for the plants.

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Paeonia lactifolia (Herbaceous Peony) in bud

Apply mulch ONLY if needed. When you do mulch, consider mulching with half or all compost or a layer of shredded leaves and another inch of finely ground mulch.  If the mulch applied earlier has not broken down, do not apply more.  Sometimes, overzealous mulching leads to an impenetrable mat that traps moisture, thus inviting disease.  Rake loose the existing mulch to allow air and rain through to the soil.  Also, be sure not to lay the new mulch too thick — especially in perennial beds.

PLEASE DO NOT volcano mulch around trees! Volcano mulch is the term used to describe mulch piled up in a big mound around a tree.  When mulch rests against a tree trunk, it traps moisture, softening the trunk and inviting pests and disease.  Over time, the tree will decline and die. Richmond Tree Stewards recommend the 3x3x3 rule:  no more than 3 inches of mulch, in a 3 foot wide circle, stopping 3 inches from the trunk.

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Helleborus foetidus (Stinking Hellebore) emerging in late winter

The opening of the first buds, and the resurrection of plants that looked to be dead, fill the gardener with an enthusiasm that is as perennial as the season.”  Elizabeth Lawrence,  A Southern Garden

THE SIDE YARD AS A GARDEN FEATURE

 

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The side yard is often a throw-away.  Ignored.  Neglected. Just a place to hide the trash cans.  But walking from your front yard to your back yard should be, at the very least,  a pleasant saunter.   Ideally, it is a beautiful garden room that is a captivating transition between front and back.

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A successful side yard will create some separation between front and back. That separation can be subtle, such as twin trees or shrubs acting as sentries, or a solid separation.  In the picture above, two brick pillars covered in Creeping Fig (Ficus pumila) anchor a wooden gate that allows a peek beyond.

brick pillars iron gateThe iron gate and fence posts supported by brick columns, above, have a more open feeling.  The evergreen plantings, including Japanese (spring blooming) Camellia (Camellia japonica) and Confederate Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) provide essential softening of the the hardscape.

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This Charleston home shows off the classic iron and brick work that defines Charleston gardens.

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Whether the arch is brick or wood, it beckons. This white arbor and fence  are the perfect complement to the Climbing Rose.

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Beyond the gate, the two airy trees underplanted with the low shrubs are the counterpoint to the brick-supported gate, and offer a subtle transition from side yard to back yard.

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A roomy side yard allows for sweeping borders. The graceful curve of the brick mowing edge leads the eye to the back yard entrance.

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This generous side yard uses a low Boxwood hedge to define the borders in a classic arc and jog.  The play of severe lines and loose plantings provides a wonderful tension and release.

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This linear Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’) hedge and stone walkway in a Princeton garden provide structure for the mixed perennial and shrub border. Note the tall evergreen hedge on the property’s border, which allows complete privacy from  next door in a bustling neighborhood.

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Separation between front and back aren’t always necessary.  Here, all that’s needed is a brick path leading the way.  The Crapemyrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)  allee provides a nice canopy.

winding brick path

Where you have more than an eight or ten foot wide side yard, your path can sport some curves.

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The path can also provide necessary changes in elevation.

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This brick path takes an abrupt right turn as it enters the back yard.  The fern-topped sculpture provides an interesting terminus.

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Corner lots provide opportunities for public “side yards.”  This five foot wide planting strip in Savannah makes the most of its space.  The trees are limbed up, allowing the sculptural quality of the trunks to steal the show.

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This New Orleans garden uses sweeping curves and low masses of plants, at once providing both continuity of the beds and separation between the spaces.

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On the opposite end of the spectrum, this brick wall and Ligustrum hedge provide privacy for this corner yard.  The Liriope softens the brick work.

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Here’s another gorgeous example of evergreens softening  a large amount of hardscape — in this case, an otherwise stark stucco wall.

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Where the side yard  is a driveway, it  can be given more of a garden feel if it is paved with brick, slate, bluestone or crushed stone.

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This “side” yard (considered the home’s front yard in Charleston) has a driveway paved in slate, and a series of hedges to separate the drive from the garden.  When paving a driveway with stone, use an experienced mason.  In order for the stone to bear the weight of vehicles, it must be laid using the correct thickness of stone, and very specific support and preparation.

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If the side yard is especially wide, it can be turned into a courtyard. Here, a former sloping side yard was given walls and a frog pond.

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This side yard-turned-courtyard is just one of a series of rooms.

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Study your side yard with new eyes.  Whether you add a simple stepping stone path bordered by plants or you build a  courtyard where you relax sipping your coffee or wine, it’s an opportunity waiting to be unleashed.

FLOWERS FOR THE OCTOBER GARDEN

 

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Yes, October means our Maples, Ginkgos, Black Gums and Sourwoods step out of the background and take center stage. But it’s not all about the foliage in October. Several plants are blooming their heads off this time of year.  Here are a few to consider adding to your garden  to extend the bloom season into fall.

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In Peggy Valentine’s charming garden, Lespedeza thunbergii (also called Pink Bush Clover) spreads its pink wings, while Japanese Anemone (Anemone japonica) climbs through it.  In the foreground, Hardy Begonia and Sedum compete for attention.  The Begonia pictured was named for Peggy.  She allows plants such as the Lespedeza and Begonia to spread sparingly.  I’m envious of her ability to balance volunteers in both numbers and species to create a seemingly spontaneous yet dazzling plant palette.

Morning Glory

Honorine Jobert Anemone (Anemone japonica ‘Honorine Jobert’) is a great perennial to tuck in the back of most perennial borders.  It grows unobtrusively until late summer, when its stem shoots up to about 3 feet, producing single white flowers that bloom profusely until a hard frost.  Many gardeners find Morning Glories to be a pest, but I can’t help loving them. The Morning Glories in my yard have become good friends with my Anemones.

Cardinal flower and ageratumCardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis) and the perennial form of Blue Mistflower (Eupatorium coelistium) happily co-exist in the perennial bed.  Plant them with earlier flowering perennials such as Columbine (Aquilegia, spp.) and False Indigo (Baptisia australis). The Eupatorium and the Cardinal Flower are naturally found near stream banks and will grow in damp soils.

Blue Lobelia

Great Blue Lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica) is another native Lobelia found in the wild near stream banks.  This little guy popped up in the cracks of a garden path.

Ageratum and Lantana

The annual form of Eupatorium (Ageratum houstonianum) pairs nicely with other annuals, like this Lantana which blooms all summer.

Spider flower

Mary Glen Taylor’s lovingly tended four-season garden is full of fall-blooming flowers. Her Spider Flower (Cleome hassleriana) leads the way to the beautiful garden gate.  Cleome is a drought-tolerant self-seeding annual that grows in sun and part shade.  If you don’t want it to bloom next year, be sure to cut it back before it sheds its seeds.

Tufton asters

I didn’t catch the name of this Aster blooming at Monticello’s Tufton Farm, but it looks like the Michaelmas Daisy, or Monch Aster (Aster x frikartii ‘Monch’).  At Tufton Farm, the focus is on plants important to America’s horticultural heritage.  Thomas Jefferson was interested in learning about plants native to Virginia, native to other parts of the United States (many of which were  brought back by Lewis and Clark) and native to Europe.  Tufton propagates plants from all of these places, and supplies Monticello with many of the resulting plants.

Aster and zinnia

Melinda Hardy hijacked my camera to catch this bee hovering around the Asters and Zinnias in garden writer Marty Ross’s expansive Gloucester garden.

Globe amaranth

Globe Amaranth (Gomphrena globosa — sounds like a communicable disease!) is another late-blooming annual to give color to the fall garden. It grows 12-24 inches.  The actual flowers are insignificant — the bracts are the showy part of the plant.

Phlox

Mary Glen collected this Carolina Phlox (Phlox carolina) in Roaring Gap, North Carolina. Mary Glen says that it reseeds in this pale pink and in a hotter pink, and blooms all summer (and fall).

Passionflower

Collect the seeds of Purple Hyacinth Bean (Lablab purpurea) and plant next spring along a fence for gorgeous late summer and fall blooms.

Corydalis

Corydalis (Corydalis lutea) blooms all summer when happy.  It prefers rich, moist soil that never dries out.  It is a rampant weed in cool, damp climates, but stays under control in our hot and humid weather.

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My Capital Trees buddies and I came upon these Autumn Crocus (Colchicum autumnale) in Brent and Becky Heath’s garden (Brent and Becky’s Bulbs) in Gloucester. Plant these bulbs where perennials such as Bleeding Heart (Dicentra) go dormant in summer.

Dalias

This exuberant perennial bed in Brent and Becky’s garden is bursting with pink Dahlias. Growing Dahlias is a labor of love In Richmond, because the tubers should be dug up and stored each winter. You might get away with leaving Dahlia tubers in the ground over a mild winter in Zone 7, but you risk harming or killing them if we have a harsh winter (which some predict this year).

Camellia Hana Jiman

Sasanqua Camellias usually bloom for a good two months in fall.  This single-flowered Camellia is Hana Jiman.

Iceberg Roses

In Virginia, roses come alive again once the heat retreats. This Iceberg Rose makes a beautiful hedge.

Hydrangeas

Fading plant blooms give the fall garden a melancholy beauty. Peggy’s garden is filled with Hydrangeas that turn bronzy pink in fall.

Sedum

The Sedum’s dried flower heads look smashing against Mary Glen’s red brick wall.   Reddening Begonia leaves are in the background and the tiny pink blooms of the Jewels of Opar (Talinum paniculatum) are in the foreground.

Sourwood

The fading blossoms of the native Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboretum) are highlighted by the red fall folliage of the tree.

beauty berry

The pink berries of this native American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) growing in Marty Ross’s garden are just beginning to ripen.  Beautyberry attracts birds and is drought tolerant.  Plant it behind a low evergreen shrub or dwarf Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii). Cut it back generously in late winter or early spring to keep it from getting too gangly.

The air is crisp.  The earth is still warm. There’s no better time to dig in the garden.