Posts

BEFORE AND AFTER: THE ENGLISH GARDEN

img_2314

Before and Afters are an effective tool to help gardeners  see the possibilities for transformations in their own garden spaces. This B and A  takes me back several years to a memorable collaboration with Ben and Loretta English.  Ben and Loretta, who have great insight and taste, brought out the best in all of those who renovated the Englishes’ gardens and they were an absolute  delight to work with.

THE FRONT YARD

The front renovation began with a focus on the front door.  Loretta, who has a keen eye for design and a great sense of scale and proportion, felt that the front entrance needed a stronger presence to balance the facade, and so framed the door with a deeper coved hood.  Taking a cue from this enhancement, we  took the opportunity to add a broad, generous landing and a  U-shaped drive to further open up the entry.

BEFORE:

img0269

AFTER:

English

The landing is paved with select bluestone in a stacked stone herringbone pattern, and bordered by brick.  A small boxwood hedge (Buxus ‘Justin Brouwer’) and Small Periwinkle (Vinca minor) frame the landing.

Planting a U drive’s island can be tricky.  Rarely is the island on axis with the front door. Here, we planted an S curved laurel hedge (Prunus laurocerasus ‘Otto Luyken’), the apex of one curve in line with the center of the front door, with sweeps of hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Nikko Blue’) nestled in the curves.  On the street side, we planted a ground plane of pachysandra (Pachysandra terminals).

img_4797

We paved the driveway in brown crusher run and edged the driveway in cobblestone, with a cobblestone apron at the street’s entrance.

To make way for the drive, we removed a  a magnolia, and added a brick wall to hide the service and parking area.

BEFORE:

img0276

AFTER:

img_2703

We softened the edges of the house by planting Crapemyrtles (Lagerstroemia indica ‘Natchez’) on the two corners of the house. We kept the foundation planting simple, with a mass of evergreen Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis), Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides ‘Frostproof’), and Camellia sasanqua. White Dawn climbing rose drapes over the new wall.

BEFORE:

img0285

AFTER:

dsc_0325

BEFORE:

img0279

AFTER:

img_2701

On the east side, we separated the foundation plantings from those along the east side of the  driveway with a stepping stone path.  We loosened up the plant palette with Oak Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Prague Viburnum (Viburnum pragense), Variegated Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum odoratum variegatum)  and ferns.  We planted Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum) at each entrance to the driveway.

THE BACKYARD

We had a lot of fun in the back.  The Englishes had decided to add a pool, and Ben asked whether we could use the excavated dirt to add elevation to the garden.  Well.  That was music to my ears.  I LOVE to use the slightest grade change as an opportunity to add  garden elements such as walls and steps.   These features transform a garden, giving it structure, definition and depth, and it drove  the design for the Englishes’ backyard.

We divided the garden into three north-south sections, and then within those sections created several distinct spaces.  The gardens are arranged using strong axial lines, both north-south and east-west, so that each space beckons from another.

The East Section

The pool and  pool house were placed in the furtherest east section, and we left it the same grade as the house, as we needed to tie in circulation with little room to maneuver. We used select bluestone in a diamond pattern for the pool terrace, and edged it with brick, to complement the brick house.

BEFORE:

img0305

DURING:

september-2006-041

september-2006-042

AFTER:

dsc_0372

dsc_0125

The steps between the pool terrace and the raised garden are wide and expansive, with deep bluestone treads and short  stacked-stone risers.  Small periwinkle (Vinca minor) softens the hardscape and Russian Sage  (Perovskia atriplicifolia ‘Little Spike’) spills over the stacked stone wall.

dsc_0394

A view toward the pool house from the central garden lawn.

dsc_0379

Standing on the pool terrace looking north toward the house.  We added a stepping stone path, with grass joints, to lead from the pool to the central courtyard. 

The Central Section

The central garden is divided into a lower and an upper garden.  The lower garden is a formal courtyard, which acts as the  central hub, connecting the pool, the garage, the upper garden, and the arbored terrace.

BEFORE:

img0604

The beloved Brewster.

DURING:

september-2006-043

AFTER:

img_2731The new brick garage (which replaced the wood shed) and brick wall provide a sense of enclosure for the backyard. The planting beds are edged in brick in what I call a Gillette border.

dsc_0339

Looking east,  toward the pool.  The central parterre is edged in Boxwood (Buxus ‘Justin Brouwer’), and filled with tulips in spring and Catmint (Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’ ) in late spring, summer and fall.

Version 2

Looking south, toward the upper lawn, above.   The stacked stone retaining walls and broad bluestone steps are centered on one sweeping shallow radius.   Loretta found the gorgeous urn, perfect in scale and patina, to place on the central axis.

Running with Ben’s idea to use the excavated pool dirt to create elevation, we built stone walls on three sides to create a raised lawn and borders, about three feet above the otherwise very flat grade.  Gently arced steps frame the upper garden and lead to the central courtyard.  The upper garden’s expansive central lawn is flanked by perennial borders, and punctuated by an allee of Winterking Hawthorn. The Hawthorns’ branches are covered in red berries in fall and winter. Steps lead to the pool to the east, and to the informal garden and garage to the west.

BEFORE:

img0606

DURING:

september-2006-040

 

september-2006-041

AFTER:

img_4792

Looking south along the central axis of the garden, toward the terminus bordered by existing American Hollies (Ilex opaca).  We added Limelight Hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’) flanked by Chastetree (Vitex agnus-castus).  Loretta found the rustic bench, and we placed it at the south end of the lawn.

img_2743

Looking south west, from the pool terrace.  Along this same axis are steps that bisect with the tuteur and lead to the more informal west garden and the garage.

dsc_0360

Looking northeast, the perennial border in full bloom with Siberian Iris (Iris siberica ‘Caesar’s Brother’), Catmint (Nepeta x ‘Walker’s Low’), Peonies (Paeonia latifolia), and False Indigo (Baptisia australis).

The West Section

The west section was divided into three spaces.  First, the Englishes replaced a small shed with a 2 story garage. We placed an irregular stepping stone path parallel to the garage, where it terminates at a wood tuteur planted with Confederate Jasmine  (Trachelospermum jasminoides). To the east of the tuteur are steps that lead to the upper lawn and continue to the pool. To the west is a path to the informal garden, where we filled the planting beds with the plants we dug up during the renovation.

BEFORE:

img0608

The Englishes had little screen from their neighbors, above, and from the parking area, below, before  the renovation.

img0300

DURING:

september-2006-041

AFTER:

img_2708

The stepping stone path leads to the nexus of the entrances to the central upper garden on the left, and the informal garden, on the right, which can be seen in the background.

img_2713

The iron grillwork that Loretta found at Caravati’s softens the brick facade of the garage.  White Dawn climbing rose are supported by the ironwork.  The  silver foliage of Lamb’s Ears (Stachys byzantina ‘Silver Carpet’) and Bearded Iris (Iris germanica) play off the cool colors of the stone.  Ben installed “temporary” fencing to protect the garden from their puppy’s shenanigans.

dsc_0357

Spirea (Spiraea japonica ‘Anthony Waterer’) spills over the path from the tuteur to the informal garden.

The Englishes have generously shared their renovated garden with many, hosting their kids’ teammates and friends and opening for garden tours benefitting the community. Their vision and beautiful taste shaped the garden, and our collaboration with the talented and hard-working  masons, carpenters, general contractors and, most especially, the late great landscaper William Lowe, ensured that the plans were faithfully and skillfully executed, resulting in a well-loved garden.

dsc_0303

Many of the AFTER photographs (the good ones — you can tell the difference!) used in this blog were taken by the uber-talented Helen Horsley.

EARLY SPRING GARDEN CHORES

For those restless gardeners who, like me, are checking their gardens daily for signs of life, grab your pruners and head outside, because it’s time to:

butterfly mag

Magnolia denudata (Butterfly Magnolia)

Cut back Liriope with the lawn mower or string trimmer.

Cut back to the ground any Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalist)  or Christmas Rose (Helleborus  niger) leaves that are browning or leathery. Most old leaves announce themselves by collapsing flat on the ground — just as we do at the end of the day!

New growth and flowers should already be emerging.

H orientalis

Helleborus niger (Christmas Rose)

Prune to about 2 inches high all perennials not cut back in fall.

Exceptions: cut back Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage) to about 6 inches, cut back Salvia microphylla/greggii (very similar, often confused)  to about 4 inches.  These are both woody perennials.

cheekwood perennials

A perennial bed at Cheekwood Garden in Nashville

DO NOT cut back Tree Peonies!  They bloom on old growth.

Remove dead and discolored Stachys byzantina foliage (Lamb’s Ears).

Prune ornamental grasses all the way back.

Don’t prune before early March, since the winter color and movement are two of their best features.

Exception:  Try raking, rather than pruning, Muhly Grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris), for thicker new growth.

Lowline grasses

Ornamental grasses along the High Line in New York City

Prune dying leaves of evergreen ferns (many of the fronds still look great — I can’t usually bring myself to cut these just yet).

fern fiddlers

Dryopteris erythrosora (Autumn Fern) fiddlers emerge alongside Digitalis grandiflora (Foxglove)

 HYDRANGEAS

Prune Annabelle Hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens), if you did not do so in the fall. by cutting back all branches to 6-12 inches high.

Unlike the Mophead Hydrangeas, Annabelles bloom on new wood.

annabelle hyd

Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’

You can still prune the everblooming Hydrangeas, as they bloom on new and old wood (you will be cutting out some of the flowering buds that have set on the old wood).

You can also prune Hydrangea paniculata now (includes Pee Gee, Limelight, Tardiva cultivars).

LIMELIGHT:  If you want a full, bushy plant, cut back Limelights to about 2 or 3 feet every spring. Also prune all the little spindly branchlets.  If you are training your Limelight into a tree, then merely thin the weaker branches.

Limelight

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’

TARDIVA: Tardiva has a much nicer growth habit than Limelight and Pee Gee. It naturally grows into a tapering multi-branched small tree. To maintain the multi-branch form, just deadhead last year’s flower heads and any small spindly branches that detract from the form you are trying to attain.

tardiva

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Tardiva’

You may snap off last year’s flower heads of old-fashioned Mopheads, Lacecaps and Oak Leaf Hydrangeas, and you may cut out the oldest unproductive branches, but do not give these Hydrangeas an overall haircut right now.  They bloom on old wood.

Work aluminum sulphate into the soil in which blue Hydrangea are growing, to make the blooms bluer.  Add lime to make the blooms pinker.

OTHER SHRUBS AND TREES

Prune Buddleia davidii (Butterfly Bush) to about 2  feet and remove spindly and dead branches, if you want a full bushy plant.  If you want a  Butterfly Bush that resembles a small multi-trunk tree, only cut out straggly branches. Prune the dwarf Buddleias to about 2 feet wide and one foot tall.

Cut back Caryopteris x clandonensis (Bluebeard) to about 18 inches.

Caryopteris x clandonensis 'Longwood Blue'

Caryopteris x clandonensis ‘Longwood Blue’

Prune Callicarpa (Beautyberry) to about 6 inches.

Beautyberry

Callicarpa americana (American Beautyberry) growing wild at Jamestown

Prune Sasanqua Camellias (fall and early winter blooming Camellias) now, only if needed to shape or reduce size.

“Pinch” or hand prune Boxwood to thin and open up the plant.  This allows light and air inside so that the plant can produce leaves along the interior surfaces. This is especially important to protect the Boxwood from Boxwood Blight.  The Virginia Coopertative Extension ServiceNorth Carolina State University and Saunders Brothers Nursery are good resources for keeping up with the latest on the blight.  If planting Boxwood, be sure to ask your landscaper or the nursery whether the Boxwood come from a nursery that adheres to the Boxwood Blight Cleanliness Program.

If your Poet’s Laurel (Danae racemosa) has not been pruned in a few years, cut it back to the ground.  Poet’s Laurel produces new growth from the earth, not from other branches.  You can continue to do the full cut back (the Frank Cut) every spring; you can do the Frank cut every 2 or 3 springs; or you can just cut out the oldest third of growth every spring.

DO NOT prune any spring-flowering shrubs or trees until after they bloom!  Exception:  Dead or diseased branches can always be removed.

Camellia

Camellia Japonica blooms in late winter or spring, depending on the cultivar. It should not be pruned until after it finishes blooming.

Prune Vitex agnus-castus (Chastetree) by cutting suckers back to the ground or back to the intersection with a larger branch.  Remove some large branches to provide a nice, open shape to the small tree/shrub.  You can also cut Vitex way back, if it has gotten out of control.

Vitex

Vitex agnus-castus (Chastetree)

DO NOT COMMIT CRAPE MAIMING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Topping Crape Myrtles does nothing except disfigure the tree.  Feel free to thin Crapes now, by cutting out weaker branches and sprouts.  See my earlier post for more information on proper Crapemyrtle pruning.

ROSES

Prune Shrub Roses to about 12 to 18 inches.  Make cuts about a quarter of an inch above an outward facing bud.  Also remove any branches with diameter less than a pencil, and any diseased or dead branches.

Prune Climbing Roses.  Cut out all dead and diseased canes, any crossing  or spindly  canes and some of the oldest (increasingly less productive) canes. Tie the branches to your support.

Climbing rose

‘White Dawn’ Climbing Rose

Begin feeding roses every six weeks throughout the growing season.  While I generally avoid fertilizing plants unless they are showing signs of deficiency, roses are an exception because they are gluttonous feeders.

 OTHER CHORES

Work compost into the soil to keep it healthy and provide a source of nutrition for the plants.

peony in bud

Paeonia lactifolia (Herbaceous Peony) in bud

Apply mulch ONLY if needed. When you do mulch, consider mulching with half or all compost or a layer of shredded leaves and another inch of finely ground mulch.  If the mulch applied earlier has not broken down, do not apply more.  Sometimes, overzealous mulching leads to an impenetrable mat that traps moisture, thus inviting disease.  Rake loose the existing mulch to allow air and rain through to the soil.  Also, be sure not to lay the new mulch too thick — especially in perennial beds.

PLEASE DO NOT volcano mulch around trees! Volcano mulch is the term used to describe mulch piled up in a big mound around a tree.  When mulch rests against a tree trunk, it traps moisture, softening the trunk and inviting pests and disease.  Over time, the tree will decline and die. Richmond Tree Stewards recommend the 3x3x3 rule:  no more than 3 inches of mulch, in a 3 foot wide circle, stopping 3 inches from the trunk.

H foetidus

Helleborus foetidus (Stinking Hellebore) emerging in late winter

The opening of the first buds, and the resurrection of plants that looked to be dead, fill the gardener with an enthusiasm that is as perennial as the season.”  Elizabeth Lawrence,  A Southern Garden

MY (ROUGHLY) TEN FAVORITE DROUGHT TOLERANT PLANTS

It’s been a tough summer and fall for thirsty plants. As a gardener with no irrigation, I’m acutely aware of rainfall accumulation.  My rain gauge has been a lonely instrument this year.  Richmond is more than 8 inches below its normal annual rainfall.

One of the few benefits of no irrigation is that I observe over a long period of time how different plants react to drought. Over the last several years, I’ve developed a list of plants that I personally consider extremely drought tolerant.  These are plants in my yard that pretty much never get hit by the sprinkler.

Before I roll out my list, I must stress one very important caveat:  EVERY PLANT needs water to get established.  The first year is the most crucial, but the second is also important. Observation is the key.  When you are responsible for dragging a hose around your yard in periods without much rain, you get to know your plants really well.  Take note in the years after planting to see when the “drought tolerant” plants begin to hold their own in dry periods.  Then you will know that they’ve earned their drought tolerant status.

So here they are:  the slightly more than 10 most draught-tolerant plants in my garden :

DSC_0434

Japanese Anemone (Anemone japonica ‘Honorine Jobert’)

IMG_0785

Limelight Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight).  H. paniculata ‘Tardiva’ is also draught tolerant.  These are exceptions to the genus Hydrangea, which otherwise requires significant hydration (thus the name).

DSC_0313

Catmint (Nepeta ‘Walkers Low’)

DSC_0314

Hosta (here ‘Frances Williams) and Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum odoratum variegatum)

IMG_2339

Camellia — both Sasanqua (fall/winter blooming) and Japanese (late winter/spring blooming).  Spring blooming Camellia needs some shade to stay drought tolerant.

IMG_2413

Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis) and Boxwood (Buxus, generally)

DSC_0515

Peony (Paeonia).

DSC_0383

Poet’s Laurel (Danae racemosa)

IMG_0784

Pieris (Pieris japonica ‘Purity’).  Takes awhile to get established, then completely self-sufficient.

DSC_0316

Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)

[custom-related-posts title=”Related Posts” none_text=”None found” order_by=”title” order=”ASC”]

HISTORIC GARDEN WEEK 2014: WESTOVER PLANTATION

Welcome to Historic Garden Week 2014, the Garden Club of Virginia’s spectacular week-long celebration of Virginia’s finest homes and gardens. Before immersing yourself in Richmond’s tours Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, treat yourself to a beautiful drive east on historic Route 5 and tour Westover Plantation Tuesday.  Westover’s gardens are open daily, but the interior of the grand home is open rarely.  This is your chance to see Westover’s  gardens and interior.

DSC_0605

Route 5 is home to several 18th Century plantations, none more spectacular than Westover. At the terminus of an allee of towering Hackberries (Celtis occidentals), perfectly sited along the north bank of the James River, is one of the most noteworthy examples of Georgian architecture in the United States.

Westover

Although William Byrd II (founder of Richmond) has long been believed to have built Westover, recent (dendrochonologic)  testing of the attic beams’ tree rings  produced evidence that the house may have been built circa 1750,  which would make William Byrd III the home’s builder. Westover most likely was named for the West brothers, who were  brothers of Lord Delaware, the first colonial governor of Virginia, and leaders of the first English settlements upstream along the James River.

crest

The grounds include three spectacular pairs of 18th Century English wrought iron gates.

entry gates

Native Dogwoods (Cornus florida) flank the north iron clairvoyee.  An iron clairvoyee (claire – voie), in case you were wondering, is an ironwork gate or grille through which a vista can be enjoyed.

sculpture

A series of carved stone finials atop the  iron clairvoyee’s piers  represents the icons of virtue: the acorn, pictured above, for perseverance (from small acorns grow great oaks), the pineapple for hospitality, the Greek key for wisdom, the urn of flowers for beauty, the cornucopia for abundance and the bee hive for industry.dogwood

Westover is still a working farm, producing winter wheat, soybeans and corn. Beyond the Dogwood is a field of winter wheat.  Although the fields are not irrigated, Westover provides some of the best yields in the Commonwealth.

3 kids

Pictured above are three of the hardest workers on the grounds: Henry, Cornelia and Wills Erda, leaning against one of Westover’s famed Tulip Poplars (Liriodendron tulipifera). On a recent visit, the three were hard at work in the garden.

family #1

Westover was sold out of the Byrd family  after the death of  William Byrd III’s widow in 1814.   The plantation was brought back into the family by Byrd descendant Clarise Sears Ramsey, in 1899. Mrs. Ramsey modernized the house and established the formal garden’s  8 squares.  In 1921, Mr. and Mrs. Richard Crane, the great grandparents of Andrea Erda (pictured above, with her kids Wills, Henry and Cornelia), bought the property.

Andrea

Andrea grew up at Westover with her parents, Muschi and Frederick Fisher,  and she and her husband Rob are happily raising their family here as well. Muschi and Andrea are both members of James River Garden Club. In the picture above, Andrea shows off their awesome new double-wide chicken coop.

Ford coop

The old one was built on a Ford Model T chassis!

chickens

Cornelia and her brothers love tending to the chickens and gathering the eggs.

brick wall poet's laurel

Poet’s Laurel (Danae racemosa) spills over the crushed stone walk in the formal garden.  In the distance, beyond the Boxwood, the river beckons.

chapel azaleas

Willaim Byrd II’s tombstone lies on the central axis of the 8 square grid.

Bluebells

The garden beds are filled with Poet’s Laurel, Azaleas, Dogwoods, Spirea and swaths of the native Virginia Bluebell (Mertensia virginica), above, and the native Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis), below.

columbine

Fairy lantern

I have to confess that I have not been bitten by the Fairy Garden craze, not really understanding the concept of buying tiny objects to furnish the tiny gardens  However, the Erda kids enlightened me on the nature of a true Fairy Garden.  Using the ancient Tulip Poplars as their structure, the kids scavenge the plantation’s grounds in search of furnishings.    In the picture above, Cornelia brilliantly used a Columbine flower as the fairy garden’s lantern.

fairy garden

Henry devised a contraption allowing the fairies to climb a ladder up the trunk then parachute to the ground.

tree peonies

Back in the garden, Tree Peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa) are in full bloom for garden week.

tree peony

One word of advice to those new to growing Tree Peonies: unlike herbaceous Peonies, do not cut Tree Peonies back to the ground in the fall.  They bloom on the old wood, so leave those stalks alone for glorious blooms the following spring.

Arbor

This rustic arbor and seat are draped in Wisteria and throw off some pretty spectacular shadows.

Wisteria

The Wisteria was just beginning to pop when I was at Westover last week.  It was preparing to be in full bloom for Garden Week.

Helleborus

Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis), if not heavily mulched, will drop their heads in mid to late spring and scatter their seeds, producing lots of baby Lenten Rose.  When I was visiting Westover last week, Andrea and the kids were putting down mulch made from composted leaves:   a PERFECT medium in which those plants will thrive!!!

jet berries

A shrub the Erdas call Jet Berry (not sure of the botanical name)  flanks one of the walkways leading to William Byrd II’s tombstone.

Woodland phlox

A  butterfly hangs out in a stand of Woodland Phlox (Phlox divaricata) and Primroses. The Fishers call these Primroses, an old fashioned variety, “Cow Slips.”

wils veggie garden

Wills helps prepare the vegetable garden for planting.

Buttercups

Buttercups and a few remaining tulips cover the ground east of the 8 squares in the formal garden.

river view

A peak from the formal garden through the Boxwood reveals the James River.

mowing

Thaddeus, who helps the Erdas take care of the property, cuts the buttercups growing along the bank of the river.

bee hives

In keeping with one of the six virtues set in stone on the iron clairvoyee, Jones Tyler takes care of five bee hives. One of the hives produces 5 gallons a year — very industrious!

necessary house

I cannot leave you without a peak at The Necessary House, the cadillac of outhouses with 5 holes and a fireplace.  It’s been written up in Privy Magazine!

gate to river

Virginia is fortunate to have the Erdas, and the Fischers before them, as hard working stewards of one of this country’s most significant homes, architecturally and historically. Moreover, they are leaders in efforts to preserve the James, our founding river. As is evident from watching Wills, Cornelia and Henry work hard and play hard on these grounds steeped in historical and ecological lessons, they will pass along their love for this place to the next generation, thus ensuring the preservation of these vital assets for generations to come.

Please take the opportunity to visit Westover this Tuesday, as part of your Garden Week pilgrimage.

 

THE SIDE YARD AS A GARDEN FEATURE

 

gate and mondo

The side yard is often a throw-away.  Ignored.  Neglected. Just a place to hide the trash cans.  But walking from your front yard to your back yard should be, at the very least,  a pleasant saunter.   Ideally, it is a beautiful garden room that is a captivating transition between front and back.

wood gate

A successful side yard will create some separation between front and back. That separation can be subtle, such as twin trees or shrubs acting as sentries, or a solid separation.  In the picture above, two brick pillars covered in Creeping Fig (Ficus pumila) anchor a wooden gate that allows a peek beyond.

brick pillars iron gateThe iron gate and fence posts supported by brick columns, above, have a more open feeling.  The evergreen plantings, including Japanese (spring blooming) Camellia (Camellia japonica) and Confederate Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) provide essential softening of the the hardscape.

brick arch

This Charleston home shows off the classic iron and brick work that defines Charleston gardens.

rose arbor

Whether the arch is brick or wood, it beckons. This white arbor and fence  are the perfect complement to the Climbing Rose.

potted plants framing

Beyond the gate, the two airy trees underplanted with the low shrubs are the counterpoint to the brick-supported gate, and offer a subtle transition from side yard to back yard.

shrub border

A roomy side yard allows for sweeping borders. The graceful curve of the brick mowing edge leads the eye to the back yard entrance.

stepping stones in grass

This generous side yard uses a low Boxwood hedge to define the borders in a classic arc and jog.  The play of severe lines and loose plantings provides a wonderful tension and release.

hedged walk

This linear Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’) hedge and stone walkway in a Princeton garden provide structure for the mixed perennial and shrub border. Note the tall evergreen hedge on the property’s border, which allows complete privacy from  next door in a bustling neighborhood.

brick allee

Separation between front and back aren’t always necessary.  Here, all that’s needed is a brick path leading the way.  The Crapemyrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)  allee provides a nice canopy.

winding brick path

Where you have more than an eight or ten foot wide side yard, your path can sport some curves.

stone walk

The path can also provide necessary changes in elevation.

statuary at terminus

This brick path takes an abrupt right turn as it enters the back yard.  The fern-topped sculpture provides an interesting terminus.

trees on side

Corner lots provide opportunities for public “side yards.”  This five foot wide planting strip in Savannah makes the most of its space.  The trees are limbed up, allowing the sculptural quality of the trunks to steal the show.

front side garden transition

This New Orleans garden uses sweeping curves and low masses of plants, at once providing both continuity of the beds and separation between the spaces.

brick wall on street

On the opposite end of the spectrum, this brick wall and Ligustrum hedge provide privacy for this corner yard.  The Liriope softens the brick work.

espalliered camellias

Here’s another gorgeous example of evergreens softening  a large amount of hardscape — in this case, an otherwise stark stucco wall.

jap holly fern

Where the side yard  is a driveway, it  can be given more of a garden feel if it is paved with brick, slate, bluestone or crushed stone.

slate driveway

This “side” yard (considered the home’s front yard in Charleston) has a driveway paved in slate, and a series of hedges to separate the drive from the garden.  When paving a driveway with stone, use an experienced mason.  In order for the stone to bear the weight of vehicles, it must be laid using the correct thickness of stone, and very specific support and preparation.

frog pond

If the side yard is especially wide, it can be turned into a courtyard. Here, a former sloping side yard was given walls and a frog pond.

bisected stone path

This side yard-turned-courtyard is just one of a series of rooms.

statue planter framed

Study your side yard with new eyes.  Whether you add a simple stepping stone path bordered by plants or you build a  courtyard where you relax sipping your coffee or wine, it’s an opportunity waiting to be unleashed.