THE GARDENS OF DUMBARTON OAKS

Tucked away in a quiet part of Georgetown is Dumbarton Oaks, one of the finest American gardens still in existence.  Inspired by her travels in Italy with her aunt Edith Wharton (author of Italian Villas and their Gardens), landscape gardener Beatrix Farrand created an American interpretation of the classical Mediterranean gardens she had studied, by carving out a series of garden rooms from the hilly terrain near Rock Creek for Mildred and Robert Woods Bliss, beginning in 1921.

 

Farrand designed a series of stone and brick walls, paths and steps, as well as  arbors, trellises, pools and fountains.  Although the layout was guided by Italian principles, she was influenced in her planting design by the English garden style, and Gertrude Jekyll, specifically.

Eleanor McPeck wrote in Beatrix Farrand’s American Landscapes,  that Farrand’s trademarks were “clarity of outline, a strong sense of enclosure, the simple plan enriched by architectural detail and softened by perennial beds and trees.”  The gardens of Dumbarton Oaks illustrate these principles beautifully.

My friend, Carolyn, standing in front of the north facade, below the French steps, on a cold day in February.

In 1941, after the estate was given to Harvard University, director John Thacher asked  Farrand to write a guide for the garden’s care.  Diane Kostial McGuire, in a foreward to  Farrand’s  Plant Book for Dumbarton Oaks, wrote that the book “resulted in this unique document that describes measures to be taken when plants need replacement, the various levels of maintenance required, the design concept of each part of the gardens, why particular choices were made, and why certain ideas were rejected.”

Below, a look at the gardens, as described by Beatrix Farrand in her Plant Book:

The Box Terrace (a revision by Ruth Havey eliminated the beautiful simplicity of the garden as envisioned by Farrand).

 

“The Box Terrace is intended to be an introductino to the Rose Garden, rather than a garden of importance on its own account. . .  If the Box is allowed to grow too large it engulfs the scale of the terrace, which then tends to look more like a shelf than an overture to the Rose Garden.”

Lovers’ Lane pool and amphitheater.  The seats were adapted from the “open-air theatre on the slopes of the Janiculum Hill at the Accademia degli Arcadi Bosco Parrasio.  The shape of the theatre was copied from the one in Rome, but the slopes surrounding the Dumbarton theatre are far steeper than those on the Italian hillsides.”

 

“The whole arrangement surrounding the Lovers’ Lane pool is entirely controlled by the natural slopes of the ground and the deire to keep as many of the native trees as possible unhurt and undisturbed.”

 

“In order to give seclusion to this little theatre, it has been surrounded by cast-stone columns, baroque in design. . . The columns are connected with a split natural-wood lattice in long horizontal rectangles.”

 

The Herbaceous Borders, with the toolshed in the background

 

“The composition of the planting of the Herbaceous Border should be rather carefully chosen from material which is somewhat unusual in its character and harmonious in its color tones.”

 

The Rose Garden 

 

“The high wall, on the west side with its latticed-brick balustrade, shows the difference in the material thought appropriate to use on account of the added distance from the house and its more formal lines  . . .  This high wall is an admirable place on which to grow certain climbing Roses, perhaps a Magnolia grandiflora, Clematis paniculata, and a wispy veil of Forsythia suspensa narrowing the steps leading from the Box to the Rose Garden Terrace.”

 

The Fountain Terrace contains two identical pools set in the lawn and enclosed by stone walls.

 

Beatrix would not be happy to find her fountains so spotless and pristine. She wrote, “two fountains are kept filled and playing during the summer season, and it is important that their curbs be allowed to become as mossy as possible, as, scrubbed and cleaned well, the curbs would look new and fresh and garish, whereas the fountains should appear to have been ‘found’ there and to be a part of the old plan.”

 

The Pebble Garden

 

The Beech Terrace. 

 

“. . . the structure of the tree (Fagus grandifolia) in winter is almost as beautiful as its summer color.  It was clear that in any poistion so dominated by one magnificent tree, all the other planting must be secondary and as inconspicuous as possible.”

 

Wisteria (if only I’d visited a couple of weeks before!) grows up a low wall and along a chain.

 

 

 

 

 

Steps from the Fountain Garden to the Rose Garden

 “The steps have been broken into three different flights in order to make the climbing not too laborious a process.  Two-thirds of the way down the steps, a seat, under a lead canopy, is placed on the landing, and, when possible, is surrounded by pot [no, I don’t think she means THAT pot] plants which harmonize in color with those used in the garden.”

 

The irregular stones used in these beautiful steps signal that you are descending toward the “naturalistic” woodland and dell.

 

 

The sun shines through the Wisteria vines.

 

The Wisteria Arbor “was modified from a design of Du Cerceau (from his drawing of the garden of the Chateau Montargis).  It is planted almost entirely with Wistaria, mainly of the lavender variety but with some few plants of white.  The Wistaria Arbor is designed so as to be seen from below, so that the hanging clutches of the flowers will make a fragrant and lovely roof to the arbor.”

A closer look at the stunning woodwork of the Wisteria Arbor.

 

The orangery was built around 1810.  Creeping Fig (Ficus pumila) climbs the walls and ceilings, and is pruned to form a pendant in front of each window.

Owner Mildred Bliss wrote, upon Beatrix Farrand’s death, “never did Beatrix Farrand impose on the land an arbitrary concept.  She ‘listened’ to the light and wind and grade of each area under study.  The gardens grew naturally from one another until now, in their luxuriant spring growth, as in the winter when leafless branches show each degree of distance and the naked masonry, there is a special quality of charming restfulness.”

NEW YORK GARDEN DESIGNER LYNDEN MILLER CHALLENGES RICHMOND

Cooling off on the rocks at Belle Isle

Richmond’s location at the fall line of the James River has put it on the map as a destination for those seeking the raw natural beauty of the river’s banks, rapids and trails.  Retiring James River Park director Ralph White devoted his career to restoring the James and the parkland bordering it.

 

Anne Rusbuldt chilling on the James

 

Nathan Burrell, head of Richmond’s extensive trail system, has built on that success, spending years working with colleagues and volunteers to carve out miles and miles of trails on both banks of the river.  Currently, he is spearheading a trail-building project on Chapel Island.

 

Anne Wallace Tazewell, Will Tazewell, Ford Turner and Amanda Johnson hiking the Buttermilk Trail

 

Richmond is also home to some grand and historic parks, including Byrd, Bryan and Monroe, and many smaller pocket parks and green spaces. Some public spaces, due to lack of funds, receive only the most basic maintenance.  These spaces sit waiting to be restored to their former glory.

 

Kids enjoying a day at beautiful Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden,  a wonderful source for those wanting to learn about plants.

 

Capital Trees (a joint project of the Boxwood, James River, Three Chopt and Tuckahoe Garden Clubs) is partnering with the city to restore beautiful green spaces and increase a healthy tree canopy throughout Richmond.

 

Capital Trees’ first challenge was to  turn a busy, concrete-choked block downtown into a lush green avenue that also collects and filters storm-water runoff.

 

Ginkgos, Grasses and Irises grow in bio-retention wells on the east side of 14th Street

 

Designed by Capital Trees’ partners 3north (led by Jay Hugo) and Water Street Studio (led by Keith Whipple), the block of 14th Street between Bank and Main is planted with a triple allee of Ginkgos and Swamp White Oaks.  On the east side of the street the trees, along with grasses and irises, are planted in engineered bio-filtration wells that capture and filter polluted storm-water.

 

Ginkgos and Liriope grow on the west side of 14th Street 

 

The 14th Street project was so successful, Capital Trees and the city have since partnered on several more projects.  3north is Capital Trees’ design partner, and Water Street Studio provides design and engineering assistance. These projects include:

 

Renovation of the RMA Plaza

Capital Trees, in partnership with the City and 3north, is renovating this dilapidated park (across from The James Center on Byrd Street), adding trees, rain gardens, seating and public gathering spaces.

Lynden Miller encourages us to incorporate lush planting beds when building the new park at the RMA Plaza.     Susan Robertson, Scott Ukrop, Melinda Hardy and Jill Nolt listen to Lynden’s suggestions.

 

The Jefferson Greenway

The proposed Greenway, following 10th Street south from the Capitol to the canal, is inspired by Jefferson’s original vision of a hilltop capitol, broadly facing the fall line of the James. The Greenway will provide a strong natural thread that will visually, symbolically, and physically reconnect Richmond’s Capitol Square with the James.  The plan will include green spaces, trees and storm-water remediation.  The Alliance for the Chesapeake Bay and Capital Trees are partnering to make the Greenway vision a reality.

Jill Nolt and Scott Ukrop give Lynden a tour of Great Shiplock Park.

 

Great Shiplock Park

Great Shiplock Park is home to locks, dating to the 1850s, that carried ships into the  canal at the east end of the falls of the James.  The sleepy park is about to get a major facelift as the future site of the Virginia Capital Trail’s Eastern Trailhead. Beth Weisbrod, Executive Director of the Virginia Capital Trail Foundation, has brought together her foundation, the City, Capital Trees and other constituencies to go beyond the mandate of building a trailhead. Plans are in place to make the park into yet another beautiful public garden space where cyclists, hikers, kayakers, birdwatchers, runners and picnickers will come to soak in the park’s history and natural beauty.  Landscape architect Jill Nolt (3north) has designed the space to be beautiful and functional, with shaded lawns and lush rain gardens to  trap and filter storm-water.

 

Riding the Virginia Capital Trail with friends

 

Seizing this momentum, Capital Trees (led by Jeanette McKittrick) and Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden (led by Frank Robinson) decided it was the perfect time to bring  back the garden designer and advocate who inspired many in the community during a visit in 2008.

Lynden Miller, the woman who transformed Central Park’s Conservatory Garden and Bryant Park, among many other public spaces in New York and beyond, swept into Richmond last week and succeeded in bringing together our city, corporate, foundation, civic, horticultural and design leaders — people who care about the quality of life in Richmond.  She called on us to “create and support well-planted parks and gardens as essential urban oases that reduce crime and have positive effects on the economic welfare of Richmonders.”  She spent a cold rainy day touring the Capital Trees projects (see pictures above), gave an inspiring talk to the Richmond garden clubs and another rousing presentation to a group at the botanical garden, advised Bon Secours on healing gardens and conducted a workshop for community leaders.

 

Scott Ukrop and Jill Nolt from 3north, in conjunction with Randee Humphrey from Lewis Ginter and Jeanette McKittrick from Capital Trees, organized the workshop, and it looks to be a  pivotal moment in Richmond’s movement toward reclaiming its public spaces. They brought together a group of creative thought and design leaders to discuss opportunities and challenges we face in transforming our city.  Using two of the Capital Trees projects and Monroe Park as case studies, folks bounced ideas off each other, received invaluable advice from Lynden (see some of her design principles below), and left the meeting with a sense that this city’s businesses, residents and municipal leaders are ready to shake up the status quo and nurture the budding green renaissance.

 

Lynden says, “make it gorgeous and they will come.  Keep it that way and they will help.”

 

Lynden challenged us to harness the meeting’s energy and continue to collaborate to reach our potential. She “demonstrated the power of plants to soften and civilize public life, and showed how beautiful public spaces, planted and maintained to high standards, have the power to transform the way people behave and feel about their cities.”  Parks, Plants, and People, by Lynden B. Miller.  I think we’re up to the challenge.

A FEW FUNDAMENTAL GARDEN PRINCIPLES 

 

Here are some of Lynden’s principles of garden design that can be applied to public gardens as well as your own private patch of earth.  I’ve thrown in a few of my own guiding principles as well:

PLANT TREES TO CREATE A  CANOPY, SHADOW AND SHADE

 

CREATE A BEAUTIFUL PLANT PALETTE

 

 INCORPORATE PLENTY OF SEATING

 

 

BREAK UP HARDSCAPE WITH PLANTS 

 

 

 

A GARDEN IS A WONDERFUL BACKDROP FOR ART

 

PROVIDE LAWN FOR RECREATION AND NAPS

 

DON’T FORGET PATHS AND WALKWAYS


GOOD BONES AND INTERESTING ARCHITECTURE WILL ENSURE THE GARDEN ENDURES

SKILLED AND REGULAR MAINTENANCE ARE A MUST

 

NASHVILLE’S CHEEKWOOD BOTANICAL GARDENS

A water garden bordering one of Cheekwood’s grand terraces

The Cheekwood estate was the Nashville home of Leslie Cheek and Mabel Wood Cheek, early investors in Maxwell House Coffee.  The limestone mansion and extensive gardens were designed by New York-based residential and landscape architect Bryant Fleming. Cheekwood is a Southern suburban interpretation of an Eighteenth Century English Country House. The estate is now a museum and botanical garden. I explored the incredible gardens last summer while in Nashville.

Water spills out of an urn and into a pool below

Cheekwood has a Richmond connection.  Mary Tyler Freeman Cheek McClenahan, one of Richmond’s most accomplished women, was married to Leslie Cheek, Jr., the second director of the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts.  Mrs. McClenahan was dedicated to improving the lives of Richmond’s poor, and dedicated to the City’s urban renewal and preservation of its history, arts and landscapes. She co-founded, with Carter McDowell, Richmond’s Better Housing Coalition.  Mrs. McDowell is still a driving force in the continuing success of the Coalition, ensuring that the vision of the founders is realized.

One of three ponds that provided water for the house and the other water gardens

Many sources of water, including the three ponds that serve as a reservoir for other water features, as well as streams, fountains, formal pools and naturalistic pools, adorn the grounds.

Ferns, Iris and Yew spill over the bank of the stream

Water lilies (Nymphaea) thrive in a circular stone pool

An ornamental millstone sits in the center of the stone pool

One of many sculptures anchors this water garden

Stone and ornamental iron also dominate the grounds, and effectively connect the gardens and the house.  Local master metalworker Philip Kerrigan, Jr., created the estate’s ironwork.  Cheekwood was his first major commission, and he went on to collaborate with Fleming on other projects.  Kerrigan is credited with reviving the ornamental metal arts in Nashville.

Wisteria creates a canopy over the terrace

Now you know why Mutual Assurance doesn’t let you grow Wisteria on your house!

Iron grillwork adorns a window

Stone retaining walls are used to terrace the sloping land

Stone slabs form a bench

Euphorbia finds a home in the stone

In the 1990’s, Nashville based landscape architect Ben Page led a team in restoring the original gardens, including the view sheds seen from the mansion when it was originally built in the late 1920s.

American Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens)

Peter Fleming anchored the formal gardens with masses of Boxwood.

Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), Rose Mallow (Hiiscus moscheutus), Rose of Sharon (Hybiscus syriacus), and grasses anchor the late summer perennial border

This perennial border provides four seasons of interest.  By late summer, it is bursting.

Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia), Lavender (Lavendula angustifolia), Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina), Nepeta sibirica (Catmint), PInks (Dianthus), and several Salvias make up the Silver Garden

The gray stone walls are the perfect foil for the silver-foliaged plants.

Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum)

Gorgeous Japanese Maples dot the landscape.

Japanese Beech Fern (I think) (Thelypteris decursive-pinnata) and native Columbine snuggle up to a decaying double tree trunk

 

Verbena and Lobelia

This border between two brick walls succeeds because it is predominantly foliage, with a range of pinks that complement the red brick.

A rainbow of annuals under a series of 8 arches.

The Robertson Ellis Color Garden is a study of color as a design element.

 

If you find yourself in or near Nashville, I highly recommend a visit to Cheekwood Botanical Gardens.

GEORGIAN DOCKYARD IS A GARDEN GEM

We stumbled upon Nelson’s Dockyard while on Spring Break in Antiqua.

The Dockyard, known as  His Majesty’s Antigua Naval Yard, was built by British Admiral Horatio Nelson in the 18th Century.  It was the headquarters of the British  Leeward Islands Fleet until the mid-19th Century.

The Georgian buildings and lush grounds have been beautifully restored.

Everyone leaves their mark in this bar, which catches the breezes off the marina. The marina is host to the famous Antigua Sailing Week.

These Boat House pillars survived a hurricane in 1871, and now frame a sunken garden and the lawn surrounding the Admiral’s Inn dining terrace.

We had so much fun at the Dockyards, we decided to go back the next day — to see if the wine tasted better in the bar on the North side of the Dockyards.  To our surprise, we stumbled upon Prince Edward and Princess Sophie, heading out for the evening  after planting trees to commemorate the Queen’s Diamond Jubiliee.  They were running late, so couldn’t sit down and share a glass with us.  Such a shame, they seemed like lots of fun.(Photo credit to Susan Robertson)

We moved on, and most definitely had more fun than the Royals, closing down The Admiral’s Inn.