HOLLYWOOD CEMETERY’S HERITAGE ROSES

 

Hollywood

Richmond’s historic Hollywood Cemetery, renowned for being the resting place for many notable Virginians, is also home to a vast collection of heritage roses, many with fascinating histories of their own. I first became acquainted with Hollywood’s roses in 2011, when I worked with fellow members of the James River Garden Club (JRGC) to update Hollywood’s Notable Tree and Rose Map.  James River’s Evie Scott, Hollywood general manager David Gilliam and Van Yahres Associates, a site design firm in Charlottesville that advises Hollywood on its legacy trees, led the endeavor.

cabbage

Connie believes the Goodall Rose is ‘Radiance’, a hybrid tea.

Fast forward to the summer of 2012, when Kelly Wilbanks,  Executive Director of Friends of Hollywood, turned her attention to the roses. Kelly understands both the historic and horticultural importance of the roses to the cemetery.  Determined to find someone with rose knowledge to help her at Hollywood, she attended a Richmond Rose Society meeting.  Kelly says, “I wasn’t even sure what help meant and had no idea where it might lead or what it might produce.”

not sure

‘Cecile Brunner’ climbing rose envelopes the Harrison monument

Happily for Kelly, Connie HIlker, owner of Hartwood Roses in Spotsylvania County, was at the meeting, and immediately jumped at the chance to help.  Kelly discovered that Connie had been studying, documenting and propagating Hollywood’s roses for several years (see Connie’s blogs on the Hollywood roses). Talk about a fortuitous meeting!  Kelly had found an expert who already knew Hollywood’s roses as old friends, and Connie would be able to continue the work she had begun, but now she would do so in conjunction with Hollywood’s leadership.

hmm

The ‘Howe Rose’ is an unidentified Tea rose

Since that meeting, Connie has worked with Hollywood Grounds Supervisor Donald Toney to locate and identify over 100 heritage roses in the cemetery, and devise a maintenance and conservation schedule. The identification includes noting the class, growth habits and present condition of each rose. Connie very kindly took the time to identify for this post several Hollywood roses.

Larus

Connie has not yet identified the Larus Rose, but it is one of her favorites.

My next brush with Hollywood’s roses came while touring  the grounds of Tufton Farm and Monticello that fall with JRGC.  At Tufton (home to the Thomas Jefferson Center for Historic Plants), I learned the intriguing history of ‘Champneys Pink  Cluster’ Noisette. The name rang a bell, because I had come across the rose while doing the research for the updated Notable Tree and Rose Map at Hollywood.

champneys at HW

‘Champneys Pink Cluster’ rose in Hollywood Cemetery

‘Champneys Pink Cluster’ Rose is credited as the first Noisette. I had always assumed that, given its name, Noisette’s heritage was French.  Not so!   In the early 1800‘s John Champneys, president of the South Carolina Horticultural Society,  crossed the white musk cluster rose (Rosa moschata) and the ever-blooming ‘Old Blush’ China rose to produce ‘Champneys Pink Cluster’, with clusters of pale pink flowers that bloomed throughout the season.

Champneys close

‘Champneys Pink Cluster’ rose at Tufton Farm in Albemarle County

Champneys shared cuttings with Long Island nursery owner William Prince (who provided many plants to Jefferson) and with his Charleston neighbor, Pillippe Noisette.  Noisette, son of head gardener to Louis XVI (Phillipe came to America to avoid the French Revolution), produced his own seedlings, labeled them ‘Blush’ and shipped some to his gardener brother Louis Noisette in Paris.  There, Louis Noisette produced several varieties from the Champneys cross, and this class became known as Noisette.  While Mr. Champneys was not credited with the creation of a new repeat blooming cluster class of roses, he will always be lauded by rosarians for initiating the beloved Noisette class.

roses at Tufton

At Tufton farm, ‘Champneys’ is grown on these good looking, simple, rustic supports

After touring Tufton, we popped over to neighboring Monticello.  There, Peggy Cornett, director of the Thomas Jefferson Center for Historic Plants, drew our attention to Rosa moschata, or musk rose (a parent of ‘Champneys’).  In 1985, rose rustler Marie Butler discovered the musk, thought to be extinct, in Hollywood’s Crenshaw plot.  In 1998, Peggy, Douglas Seidel and Diane Lowe discovered a musk at The Recess at Bremo plantation.   The Bremo Musk has since been dated to 1815.  The musk now growing at Monticello was subsequently propagated from the Bremo Musk. Extensive research was done by many, including Cornett, Seidel and Butler (recounted in a paper published by the Southern Garden History Association), in an attempt to find a link between the Bremo Musk and the Crenshaw Rose, but no connection has been made. As Butler stated, “the discovery of the musk rose in America retains its aura of mystery.”

I apologize for this  woefully inadequate and brief attempt to summarize the complex history of these roses.  Meticulous and fascinating research has been done by Cornett, Seidel, Butler and others.  That research spans over four centuries, features Jefferson’s pursuit of the musk and follows the trail from Charlottesville to Long Island, Chesterfield, Hillsborough, Charlotte and, of course, Hollywood.  For anyone interested in a fascinating example of the intersection of American history and botanical history, I recommend that you begin your exploration with Monticello, the Heritage Rose Foundation and the Southern  Garden History Association.

Helen S Reed

James River Garden Club member Helen Scott Reed inspects the Musk Rose growing near Monticello’s portico.

Meanwhile, back at Hollywood . . .  Kelly and Connie took the next step toward restoring the historic roses to their former glory.  They held the inaugural Hollywood Rose Volunteer Workshop on a blustery day last March. Connie gave each group of 3 or 4 volunteers a list of assigned roses, a location map and instructions for specific pruning requirements for each plant.

crenshaw before

Stephen Scaniello and Anne Call pruning the legendary Crenshaw Rose

Anxious to follow up on our rose mapping project, curious to learn more about the roses, and excited to take part in such an ambitious and worthy horticultural and preservation effort, I came raring to go.  I will be forever indebted to Kelly for grabbing me and teaming me up with Peter Toms, the delightful Chairman of Friends of Hollywood, Stephen Scaniello, president of the Heritage Rose Foundation and former director of the famed Cranford Rose Garden at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden and volunteer Anne Call.

crenshaw after

Stephen, Anne and Peter Toms admire their handiwork on the Crenshaw Rose.

And then the day got even better — Connie assigned our group the task of pruning the cemetery’s most celebrated rose.  Yes, the rose Peggy Cornett told us about at Monticello:  the Crenshaw Rose!  As reported by Peter in the Friends of Hollywood Newsletter, Stephen advised us, “think about what you are cutting and what it will look like when you do.  Take your time.  Have in mind the shape you ultimately want to achieve, and the height.  This is a cluster-flowered rose.  In fact, it is the ‘mother of all cluster-flowering roses.’”  We tamed that mother on that chilly March day!

crenshaw with stone

My visit to Hollywood in late May last year was a little early to capture the Crenshaw Rose in its peak glory.

crenshaw close at HW

Check out the abundance of buds on the Crenshaw Rose!

Hollywood is holding its second annual rose volunteer work day this Saturday, March 15.  If you love Hollywood’s history and grounds or are a passionate gardener who likes to roll up your sleeves, I highly recommend spending the day giving the historic roses some much appreciated love and care.  Contact Kelly Wilbanks, kwilbanks@hollywoodcemetery.org for more information.

rambler?

The bright red of this rose, possibly a ‘Crimson Rambler’, stands out against the soft new growth of the Boxwood.

In closing, I’ll leave you with a few pruning tips from Stephen Scaniello’s A Year of Roses:

Remove dead and diseased wood. Canes with unusual dicooration or severe looking blotches should be removed.

don't know

Remove weak, spindly canes and crossing branches from the center of the plant to allow air to circulate the plant.

close up of?

The Doswell Rose is an unidentified ‘Alba’.

Shorten remaining canes, making each cut about a quarter inch above a bud eye (the swelling red point located along the cane). These buds develop into new branches that will produce a flower. Because the new growth grows in the direction of the bud eye, be sure to make your cuts above outward facing buds.

pres circle

An ‘Old Blush’ rose by Presidents Circle thrives. Some bushes in this area have perished in recent years.

EARLY SPRING GARDEN CHORES

For those restless gardeners who, like me, are checking their gardens daily for signs of life, grab your pruners and head outside, because it’s time to:

butterfly mag

Magnolia denudata (Butterfly Magnolia)

Cut back Liriope with the lawn mower or string trimmer.

Cut back to the ground any Lenten Rose  or Christmas Rose (Helleborus genus) leaves that are browning or leathery.

New growth and flowers should already be emerging.

H orientalis

Helleborus niger (Christmas Rose)

Prune to about 2 inches high all perennials not cut back in fall.

Exceptions: cut back Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage) to about 6 inches, cut back Salvia microphylla/greggii (very similar, often confused)  to about 4 inches.  These are both woody perennials.

cheekwood perennials

A perennial bed at Cheekwood Garden in Nashville

DO NOT cut back Tree Peonies!  They bloom on old growth.

Remove dead and discolored Stachys byzantina foliage (Lamb’s Ears).

Prune ornamental grasses all the way back.

Don’t prune before early March, since the winter color and movement are two of their best features.

Exception:  Try raking, rather than pruning, Muhly Grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris), for thicker new growth.

Lowline grasses

Ornamental grasses along the High Line in New York City

Prune dying leaves of evergreen ferns (many of the fronds still look great — I can’t usually bring myself to cut these just yet).

fern fiddlers

Dryopteris erythrosora (Autumn Fern) fiddlers emerge alongside Digitalis grandiflora (Foxglove)

 HYDRANGEAS

Prune Annabelle Hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens), if you did not do so in the fall. by cutting back all branches to 6-12 inches high.

Unlike the Mophead Hydrangeas, Annabelles bloom on new wood.

annabelle hyd

Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’

You can still prune the everblooming Hydrangeas, as they bloom on new and old wood (you will be cutting out some of the flowering buds that have set on the old wood).

You can also prune Hydrangea paniculata now (includes Pee Gee, Limelight, Tardiva cultivars).

LIMELIGHT:  If you want a full, bushy plant, cut back Limelights to about 2 or 3 feet every spring. Also prune all the little spindly branchlets.  If you are training your Limelight into a tree, then merely thin the weaker branches.

Limelight

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’

TARDIVA: Tardiva has a much nicer growth habit than Limelight and Pee Gee. It naturally grows into a tapering multi-branched small tree. To maintain the multi-branch form, just deadhead last year’s flower heads and any small spindly branches that detract from the form you are trying to attain.

tardiva

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Tardiva’

You may snap off last year’s flower heads of old-fashioned Mopheads, Lacecaps and Oak Leaf Hydrangeas, and you may cut out the oldest unproductive branches, but do not give these Hydrangeas an overall haircut right now.  They bloom on old wood.

Work aluminum sulphate into the soil in which blue Hydrangea are growing, to make the blooms bluer.  Add lime to make the blooms pinker.

OTHER SHRUBS AND TREES

Prune Buddleia davidii (Butterfly Bush) to about 2  feet and remove spindly and dead branches, if you want a full bushy plant.  If you want a  Butterfly Bush that resembles a small multi-trunk tree, only cut out straggly branches. Prune the dwarf Buddleias to about 2 feet wide and one foot tall.

Cut back Caryopteris x clandonensis (Bluebeard) to about 18 inches.

Caryopteris x clandonensis 'Longwood Blue'

Caryopteris x clandonensis ‘Longwood Blue’

Prune Callicarpa (Beautyberry) to about 6 inches.

Beautyberry

Callicarpa americana (American Beautyberry) growing wild at Jamestown

Prune Sasanqua Camellias (fall and early winter blooming Camellias) now, only if needed to shape or reduce size.

“Pinch” or hand prune Boxwood to thin and open up the plant.  This allows light and air inside so that the plant can produce leaves along the interior surfaces. This is especially important to protect the Boxwood from Boxwood Blight.  The Virginia Coopertative Extension Service, North Carolina State University and Saunders Brothers Nursery are good resources for keeping up with the latest on the blight.  If planting Boxwood, be sure to ask your landscaper or the nursery whether the Boxwood come from a nursery that adheres to the Boxwood Blight Cleanliness Program.

If your Poet’s Laurel (Danae racemosa) has not been pruned in a few years, cut it back to the ground.  Poet’s Laurel produces new growth from the earth, not from other branches.  You can continue to do the full cut back (the Frank Cut) every spring; you can do the Frank cut every 2 or 3 springs; or you can just cut out the oldest third of growth every spring.

DO NOT prune any spring-flowering shrubs or trees until after they bloom!  Exception:  Dead or diseased branches can always be removed.

Camellia

Camellia Japonica blooms in late winter or spring, depending on the cultivar. It should not be pruned until after it finishes blooming.

Prune Vitex agnus-castus (Chastetree) by cutting suckers back to the ground or back to the intersection with a larger branch.  Remove some large branches to provide a nice, open shape to the small tree/shrub.  You can also cut Vitex way back, if it has gotten out of control.

Vitex

Vitex agnus-castus (Chastetree)

DO NOT COMMIT CRAPE MAIMING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Topping Crape Myrtles does nothing except disfigure the tree.  Feel free to thin Crapes now, by cutting out weaker branches and sprouts.  See my earlier post for more information on proper Crapemyrtle pruning.

ROSES

Prune Shrub Roses to about 12 to 18 inches.  Make cuts about a quarter of an inch above an outward facing bud.  Also remove any branches with diameter less than a pencil, and any diseased or dead branches.

Prune Climbing Roses.  Cut out all dead and diseased canes, any crossing  or spindly  canes and some of the oldest (increasingly less productive) canes. Tie the branches to your support.

Climbing rose

‘White Dawn’ Climbing Rose

Begin feeding roses every six weeks throughout the growing season.  While I generally avoid fertilizing plants unless they are showing signs of deficiency, roses are an exception because they are gluttonous feeders.

 OTHER CHORES

Work compost into the soil to keep it healthy and provide a source of nutrition for the plants.

peony in bud

Paeonia lactifolia (Herbaceous Peony) in bud

Apply mulch ONLY if needed. When you do mulch, consider mulching with half or all compost or a layer of shredded leaves and another inch of finely ground mulch.  If the mulch applied earlier has not broken down, do not apply more.  Sometimes, overzealous mulching leads to an impenetrable mat that traps moisture, thus inviting disease.  Rake loose the existing mulch to allow air and rain through to the soil.  Also, be sure not to lay the new mulch too thick — especially in perennial beds.

PLEASE DO NOT volcano mulch around trees! Volcano mulch is the term used to describe mulch piled up in a big mound around a tree.  When mulch rests against a tree trunk, it traps moisture, softening the trunk and inviting pests and disease.  Over time, the tree will decline and die. Richmond Tree Stewards recommend the 3x3x3 rule:  no more than 3 inches of mulch, in a 3 foot wide circle, stopping 3 inches from the trunk.

H foetidus

Helleborus foetidus (Stinking Hellebore) emerging in late winter

The opening of the first buds, and the resurrection of plants that looked to be dead, fill the gardener with an enthusiasm that is as perennial as the season.”  Elizabeth Lawrence,  A Southern Garden

THE SIDE YARD AS A GARDEN FEATURE

 

gate and mondo

The side yard is often a throw-away.  Ignored.  Neglected. Just a place to hide the trash cans.  But walking from your front yard to your back yard should be, at the very least,  a pleasant saunter.   Ideally, it is a beautiful garden room that is a captivating transition between front and back.

wood gate

A successful side yard will create some separation between front and back. That separation can be subtle, such as twin trees or shrubs acting as sentries, or a solid separation.  In the picture above, two brick pillars covered in Creeping Fig (Ficus pumila) anchor a wooden gate that allows a peek beyond.

brick pillars iron gateThe iron gate and fence posts supported by brick columns, above, have a more open feeling.  The evergreen plantings, including Japanese (spring blooming) Camellia (Camellia japonica) and Confederate Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) provide essential softening of the the hardscape.

brick arch

This Charleston home shows off the classic iron and brick work that defines Charleston gardens.

rose arbor

Whether the arch is brick or wood, it beckons. This white arbor and fence  are the perfect complement to the Climbing Rose.

potted plants framing

Beyond the gate, the two airy trees underplanted with the low shrubs are the counterpoint to the brick-supported gate, and offer a subtle transition from side yard to back yard.

shrub border

A roomy side yard allows for sweeping borders. The graceful curve of the brick mowing edge leads the eye to the back yard entrance.

stepping stones in grass

This generous side yard uses a low Boxwood hedge to define the borders in a classic arc and jog.  The play of severe lines and loose plantings provides a wonderful tension and release.

hedged walk

This linear Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’) hedge and stone walkway in a Princeton garden provide structure for the mixed perennial and shrub border. Note the tall evergreen hedge on the property’s border, which allows complete privacy from  next door in a bustling neighborhood.

brick allee

Separation between front and back aren’t always necessary.  Here, all that’s needed is a brick path leading the way.  The Crapemyrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)  allee provides a nice canopy.

winding brick path

Where you have more than an eight or ten foot wide side yard, your path can sport some curves.

stone walk

The path can also provide necessary changes in elevation.

statuary at terminus

This brick path takes an abrupt right turn as it enters the back yard.  The fern-topped sculpture provides an interesting terminus.

trees on side

Corner lots provide opportunities for public “side yards.”  This five foot wide planting strip in Savannah makes the most of its space.  The trees are limbed up, allowing the sculptural quality of the trunks to steal the show.

front side garden transition

This New Orleans garden uses sweeping curves and low masses of plants, at once providing both continuity of the beds and separation between the spaces.

brick wall on street

On the opposite end of the spectrum, this brick wall and Ligustrum hedge provide privacy for this corner yard.  The Liriope softens the brick work.

espalliered camellias

Here’s another gorgeous example of evergreens softening  a large amount of hardscape — in this case, an otherwise stark stucco wall.

jap holly fern

Where the side yard  is a driveway, it  can be given more of a garden feel if it is paved with brick, slate, bluestone or crushed stone.

slate driveway

This “side” yard (considered the home’s front yard in Charleston) has a driveway paved in slate, and a series of hedges to separate the drive from the garden.  When paving a driveway with stone, use an experienced mason.  In order for the stone to bear the weight of vehicles, it must be laid using the correct thickness of stone, and very specific support and preparation.

frog pond

If the side yard is especially wide, it can be turned into a courtyard. Here, a former sloping side yard was given walls and a frog pond.

bisected stone path

This side yard-turned-courtyard is just one of a series of rooms.

statue planter framed

Study your side yard with new eyes.  Whether you add a simple stepping stone path bordered by plants or you build a  courtyard where you relax sipping your coffee or wine, it’s an opportunity waiting to be unleashed.