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PLANTS TO GROW FOR BEAUTIFUL GARDENS AND STUNNING ARRANGEMENTS

With the Garden Club of Virginia’s annual Historic Garden Week tours upon us, here are a few suggestions for  plants you can grow and use in arrangements like those  you see on tour.  I highlight four arrangements here that were created for last year’s tour by the talented gardeners and arrangers Susan Robertson, Margy Brown, Ida Farinholt, Sally Ellington and Gretchn Japhet.  Almost all of the plants used in the arrangements came from their own and others’ gardens.

The mantel arrangement above is like a Virginia spring garden that snuck indoors.  The backdrop of the stone wall, rough hewn timber mantel and simple galvanized metal container is perfect for the natural arrangement displaying many native plants.  Included in the arrangement are false indigo (Baptisia australis, native), kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa — it’s cousin, Cornus florida, is native), lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis), dixie wood fern (Dryopteris x australis, native), Autumn Fern (Dryopteris erythrosora), the foliage of coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens, native) and Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii).

Kousa dogwood was used in the arrangement, but the native flowering dogwood, which flowers earlier and before it leafs out, is a fantastic choice for your garden.  Kousa dogwood, native to China, supports no insect herbivores.  Our native dogwood supports 117 species of moth and caterpillar as well as many other insects. http://www.bringingnaturehome.net/gardening-for-life.html

False Indigo, with its sweet pea-like flowers, is native, prefers part sun, and is attractive for its foliage and bloom.

Lenten Rose is one of my favorite plants.  It is evergreen, the blooms (actually the bracts), persist for up to three or four months, and it happily, but not aggressively, self-seeds. It is happiest in part shade or shade.

The native Dixie wood fern and the young (red) fiddlers of autumn fern were used in the arrangement.  Another lovely fern, which is native, is Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina).  It is more delicate than most ferns, but provides an airy sweep in the garden.

The greens in the arrangement above allow the spectacular peonies (Paeonia latifolia) and bearded iris (Iris germanica) to stand out.  Supporting players are both the native solomon’s seal (Polygonatum  biflorum var. commutatum and it’s variegated cousin (Polygonatum odoratum var. pluriflorum ‘Variegatum’), false indigo, lenten rose, and  blue star (Amsonia tabernaemontana).

The iris used in the arrangement is bearded iris.  Above are two siberian iris cultivars (Iris siberica ‘Caesar’s Brother’ and ‘Butter and Sugar’).   Siberian iris, as well as the native blue flag iris (Iris versicolor) will tolerate wet soil conditions.  The sword-like foliage provides nice structure in the perennial border when the plant is not in bloom.

Amsonia hubrichtii (threadleaf bluestar) is pictured above.  The native Amsonia tabernaemontana (eastern bluestar) is pictured below with the native blue flag iris).  A. hubrichtii has spectacular yellow fall foliage. Amsonias tolerate full sun to part shade, and benefit from having their foliage cut by 1/3 to 1/2 after blooming for less floppy foliage (the foliage will continue to grow).

The native Giant Solomon’s Seal,  Polygonatum biflorum var. commutatum, can be found in Richmond’s James River Park System.  It will tolerate wet soil and prefers shade.

These bottle bud vases are such a great way to remove the stress of arranging and make use of the bounty of the garden at any given time in the growing season.  Early cottage roses and tulips join the catmint, lenten rose and greens for a lovely tableau.Single tulips underplanted with violas.

The roses above are in the gardens of Dumbarton Oaks.  I’m not sure of the species.

The arrangers took advantage of last year’s early spring, using these gorgeous, billowy peonies, and masterly pulling out the subtle deep and soft pinks of the lenten roses and peony buds.

Peonies intermingle happily with catmint, false indigo and boxwood.

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BEFORE AND AFTER: THE ENGLISH GARDEN

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Before and Afters are an effective tool to help gardeners  see the possibilities for transformations in their own garden spaces. This B and A  takes me back several years to a memorable collaboration with Ben and Loretta English.  Ben and Loretta, who have great insight and taste, brought out the best in all of those who renovated the Englishes’ gardens and they were an absolute  delight to work with.

THE FRONT YARD

The front renovation began with a focus on the front door.  Loretta, who has a keen eye for design and a great sense of scale and proportion, felt that the front entrance needed a stronger presence to balance the facade, and so framed the door with a deeper coved hood.  Taking a cue from this enhancement, we  took the opportunity to add a broad, generous landing and a  U-shaped drive to further open up the entry.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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The landing is paved with select bluestone in a stacked stone herringbone pattern, and bordered by brick.  A small boxwood hedge (Buxus ‘Justin Brouwer’) and Small Periwinkle (Vinca minor) frame the landing.

Planting a U drive’s island can be tricky.  Rarely is the island on axis with the front door. Here, we planted an S curved laurel hedge (Prunus laurocerasus ‘Otto Luyken’), the apex of one curve in line with the center of the front door, with sweeps of hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Nikko Blue’) nestled in the curves.  On the street side, we planted a ground plane of pachysandra (Pachysandra terminals).

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We paved the driveway in brown crusher run and edged the driveway in cobblestone, with a cobblestone apron at the street’s entrance.

To make way for the drive, we removed a  a magnolia, and added a brick wall to hide the service and parking area.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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We softened the edges of the house by planting Crapemyrtles (Lagerstroemia indica ‘Natchez’) on the two corners of the house. We kept the foundation planting simple, with a mass of evergreen Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis), Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides ‘Frostproof’), and Camellia sasanqua. White Dawn climbing rose drapes over the new wall.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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On the east side, we separated the foundation plantings from those along the east side of the  driveway with a stepping stone path.  We loosened up the plant palette with Oak Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Prague Viburnum (Viburnum pragense), Variegated Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum odoratum variegatum)  and ferns.  We planted Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum) at each entrance to the driveway.

THE BACKYARD

We had a lot of fun in the back.  The Englishes had decided to add a pool, and Ben asked whether we could use the excavated dirt to add elevation to the garden.  Well.  That was music to my ears.  I LOVE to use the slightest grade change as an opportunity to add  garden elements such as walls and steps.   These features transform a garden, giving it structure, definition and depth, and it drove  the design for the Englishes’ backyard.

We divided the garden into three north-south sections, and then within those sections created several distinct spaces.  The gardens are arranged using strong axial lines, both north-south and east-west, so that each space beckons from another.

The East Section

The pool and  pool house were placed in the furtherest east section, and we left it the same grade as the house, as we needed to tie in circulation with little room to maneuver. We used select bluestone in a diamond pattern for the pool terrace, and edged it with brick, to complement the brick house.

BEFORE:

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DURING:

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AFTER:

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The steps between the pool terrace and the raised garden are wide and expansive, with deep bluestone treads and short  stacked-stone risers.  Small periwinkle (Vinca minor) softens the hardscape and Russian Sage  (Perovskia atriplicifolia ‘Little Spike’) spills over the stacked stone wall.

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A view toward the pool house from the central garden lawn.

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Standing on the pool terrace looking north toward the house.  We added a stepping stone path, with grass joints, to lead from the pool to the central courtyard. 

The Central Section

The central garden is divided into a lower and an upper garden.  The lower garden is a formal courtyard, which acts as the  central hub, connecting the pool, the garage, the upper garden, and the arbored terrace.

BEFORE:

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The beloved Brewster.

DURING:

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AFTER:

img_2731The new brick garage (which replaced the wood shed) and brick wall provide a sense of enclosure for the backyard. The planting beds are edged in brick in what I call a Gillette border.

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Looking east,  toward the pool.  The central parterre is edged in Boxwood (Buxus ‘Justin Brouwer’), and filled with tulips in spring and Catmint (Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’ ) in late spring, summer and fall.

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Looking south, toward the upper lawn, above.   The stacked stone retaining walls and broad bluestone steps are centered on one sweeping shallow radius.   Loretta found the gorgeous urn, perfect in scale and patina, to place on the central axis.

Running with Ben’s idea to use the excavated pool dirt to create elevation, we built stone walls on three sides to create a raised lawn and borders, about three feet above the otherwise very flat grade.  Gently arced steps frame the upper garden and lead to the central courtyard.  The upper garden’s expansive central lawn is flanked by perennial borders, and punctuated by an allee of Winterking Hawthorn. The Hawthorns’ branches are covered in red berries in fall and winter. Steps lead to the pool to the east, and to the informal garden and garage to the west.

BEFORE:

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DURING:

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AFTER:

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Looking south along the central axis of the garden, toward the terminus bordered by existing American Hollies (Ilex opaca).  We added Limelight Hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’) flanked by Chastetree (Vitex agnus-castus).  Loretta found the rustic bench, and we placed it at the south end of the lawn.

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Looking south west, from the pool terrace.  Along this same axis are steps that bisect with the tuteur and lead to the more informal west garden and the garage.

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Looking northeast, the perennial border in full bloom with Siberian Iris (Iris siberica ‘Caesar’s Brother’), Catmint (Nepeta x ‘Walker’s Low’), Peonies (Paeonia latifolia), and False Indigo (Baptisia australis).

The West Section

The west section was divided into three spaces.  First, the Englishes replaced a small shed with a 2 story garage. We placed an irregular stepping stone path parallel to the garage, where it terminates at a wood tuteur planted with Confederate Jasmine  (Trachelospermum jasminoides). To the east of the tuteur are steps that lead to the upper lawn and continue to the pool. To the west is a path to the informal garden, where we filled the planting beds with the plants we dug up during the renovation.

BEFORE:

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The Englishes had little screen from their neighbors, above, and from the parking area, below, before  the renovation.

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DURING:

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AFTER:

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The stepping stone path leads to the nexus of the entrances to the central upper garden on the left, and the informal garden, on the right, which can be seen in the background.

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The iron grillwork that Loretta found at Caravati’s softens the brick facade of the garage.  White Dawn climbing rose are supported by the ironwork.  The  silver foliage of Lamb’s Ears (Stachys byzantina ‘Silver Carpet’) and Bearded Iris (Iris germanica) play off the cool colors of the stone.  Ben installed “temporary” fencing to protect the garden from their puppy’s shenanigans.

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Spirea (Spiraea japonica ‘Anthony Waterer’) spills over the path from the tuteur to the informal garden.

The Englishes have generously shared their renovated garden with many, hosting their kids’ teammates and friends and opening for garden tours benefitting the community. Their vision and beautiful taste shaped the garden, and our collaboration with the talented and hard-working  masons, carpenters, general contractors and, most especially, the late great landscaper William Lowe, ensured that the plans were faithfully and skillfully executed, resulting in a well-loved garden.

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Many of the AFTER photographs (the good ones — you can tell the difference!) used in this blog were taken by the uber-talented Helen Horsley.

SPRING BLOOMING PLANTS AND THE ARRANGEMENTS THAT LOVE THEM

During Historic Garden Week, gardeners from around the Commonwealth of Virginia cut foliage and flowers from the plants they grow in their gardens to use in arrangements that adorn the houses on the tour.  The arrangements not only showcase the talents of many floral artists, they also showcase some of the stellar plants that grow in Virginia. Consider planting a few in your garden.

Here’s just a small sampling of the arrangements created by James River Garden Club members this April, and some of the plants that star in those arrangements:

bleeding heart, viburnum

In the double arrangement above,  pink Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis), Guelder Rose — also called Snowball Viburnum — (Viburnum opulus ‘Roseum’), Spirea still in bud, and Akebia vine (Akebia quinata) stand tall.

 

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Akebia vine (Akebia quinata)

 

Vanhoutii Spirea

Van Houtte Spirea (Spiraea x van houtteii)

 

Bleeding Heart

Pink and White Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis)

 

bleeding heart arrangement

Bleeding Heart is also used in the arrangement above. Columbine (the native Aquilegia canadensis), Spanish Bluebell and its white cousin (Scilla Hyacinthoides), and Variegated Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’) casually spill out of a silver bowl.

 

Solomon's Seal

This is the native Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum biflorum).

 

Spanish Bluebells

Spanish Bluebells (Hyacinthoides hispanica) are bulbs planted in fall. They bloom in April and May, then go dormant a month later. They spread freely. Photograph by Helen Horsley.

 

peony and euphorbia

This simple and elegant arrangement contains Ranunculus, Euphorbia and Lenten Rose.

 

Boxwood and helleborus

Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis)

 

Euphorbia

Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae after bloom. It looks a lot like Pachysandra. It is evergreen, thrives in shade, and spreads freely when it’s happy.

 

Buckeye arrangement

This striking arrangement is all about the foliage.  The red-hued foliage of many shrubs, including Red Tips (Photinia x fraseri) and Andromeda (Pieris japonica) highlight the blooms of the Buckeye (Aesculus glabra). The white and pale green blooms of the Lenten Rose complement the reds.

 

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Buckeye (Aesculus glabra)

 

Pieris japonica

A grove of Andromeda (Pieris japonica) in bloom. The new foliage emerges red, then settles into a nice green.

 

tulip and viburnum arrThe dramatic arrangement above includes the Spirea and Solomon’s Seal pictured earlier, but the leading ladies here are the Parrot Tulips taking a bow.  Poet’s Laurel (Danae racemosa) and Ranunculus anchor the arrangement.

 

Tulips and Deutzia

Tulips in varying shades of pink adorn a stone wall in Albemarle County. Deutzia gracilis, in the foreground, is about to pop.

 

Poet's Laurel

Poet’s Laurel (Danae racemosa) is evergreen, and lasts in a vase of water for a month.

 

daffs and hosta

So simple, yet so beautiful.  Hosta and Variegated Solomon’s Seal encircle Daffodils.

 

ferns and hosta

Several varieties of Hosta join ferns and Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla mollis) in this Maine garden.

 

Narcissus

‘Cheerfulness’ and ‘Sir Winston Churchill’ Narcissus bloom along the Capital Trees Low Line in Shockoe Bottom.

 

modern mantleThis modern arrangement has an abundance of greenery, including grasses, Poet’s Laurel, Variegated Solomon’s Seal and Arum (Arum italica).  Flowers are used sparingly, but to great effect.  They include dimuntive daffodil blooms, Lilac (Syringa, genus, I think it is ‘Miss Kim’), and Carolina Allspice (Calycanthus floridus).

 

The native Carolina Allspice (Calycanthus floridus)

The native Carolina Allspice (Calycanthus floridus)

 

Lilac

Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)

 

mantleThe mantle arrangement above is a feast of textures and contrasting hues, with Photinia, Boxwood, Variegated Euonymus, Spanish Bluebells, Lenten Rose, Pachysandra and Native Azalea.  Photo by Betsy Trow.

 

Pachysandra

Pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis) is a great evergreen ground cover that tolerates tree roots.

 

church arrangementThis arrangement welcomes spring in all its glory.  Pink and peach Tulips, pink and lavender Azaleas, and pink Snapdragons blend beautifully with Snowball Viburnum (the OTHER Snowball Viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum), Lenten Rose, Deutzia gracilis and greens.

 

Deutzia gracilis in the foreground, Kerria japonica in the background.

Slender Deutzia (Deutzia gracilis) in the foreground, Kerria japonica in the background.

 

Snowball Viburnum

Snowball Viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum) can be trained into a multi-trunk tree.

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EARLY SPRING GARDEN CHORES

For those restless gardeners who, like me, are checking their gardens daily for signs of life, grab your pruners and head outside, because it’s time to:

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Magnolia denudata (Butterfly Magnolia)

Cut back Liriope with the lawn mower or string trimmer.

Cut back to the ground any Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalist)  or Christmas Rose (Helleborus  niger) leaves that are browning or leathery. Most old leaves announce themselves by collapsing flat on the ground — just as we do at the end of the day!

New growth and flowers should already be emerging.

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Helleborus niger (Christmas Rose)

Prune to about 2 inches high all perennials not cut back in fall.

Exceptions: cut back Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage) to about 6 inches, cut back Salvia microphylla/greggii (very similar, often confused)  to about 4 inches.  These are both woody perennials.

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A perennial bed at Cheekwood Garden in Nashville

DO NOT cut back Tree Peonies!  They bloom on old growth.

Remove dead and discolored Stachys byzantina foliage (Lamb’s Ears).

Prune ornamental grasses all the way back.

Don’t prune before early March, since the winter color and movement are two of their best features.

Exception:  Try raking, rather than pruning, Muhly Grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris), for thicker new growth.

Lowline grasses

Ornamental grasses along the High Line in New York City

Prune dying leaves of evergreen ferns (many of the fronds still look great — I can’t usually bring myself to cut these just yet).

fern fiddlers

Dryopteris erythrosora (Autumn Fern) fiddlers emerge alongside Digitalis grandiflora (Foxglove)

 HYDRANGEAS

Prune Annabelle Hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens), if you did not do so in the fall. by cutting back all branches to 6-12 inches high.

Unlike the Mophead Hydrangeas, Annabelles bloom on new wood.

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Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’

You can still prune the everblooming Hydrangeas, as they bloom on new and old wood (you will be cutting out some of the flowering buds that have set on the old wood).

You can also prune Hydrangea paniculata now (includes Pee Gee, Limelight, Tardiva cultivars).

LIMELIGHT:  If you want a full, bushy plant, cut back Limelights to about 2 or 3 feet every spring. Also prune all the little spindly branchlets.  If you are training your Limelight into a tree, then merely thin the weaker branches.

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Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’

TARDIVA: Tardiva has a much nicer growth habit than Limelight and Pee Gee. It naturally grows into a tapering multi-branched small tree. To maintain the multi-branch form, just deadhead last year’s flower heads and any small spindly branches that detract from the form you are trying to attain.

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Hydrangea paniculata ‘Tardiva’

You may snap off last year’s flower heads of old-fashioned Mopheads, Lacecaps and Oak Leaf Hydrangeas, and you may cut out the oldest unproductive branches, but do not give these Hydrangeas an overall haircut right now.  They bloom on old wood.

Work aluminum sulphate into the soil in which blue Hydrangea are growing, to make the blooms bluer.  Add lime to make the blooms pinker.

OTHER SHRUBS AND TREES

Prune Buddleia davidii (Butterfly Bush) to about 2  feet and remove spindly and dead branches, if you want a full bushy plant.  If you want a  Butterfly Bush that resembles a small multi-trunk tree, only cut out straggly branches. Prune the dwarf Buddleias to about 2 feet wide and one foot tall.

Cut back Caryopteris x clandonensis (Bluebeard) to about 18 inches.

Caryopteris x clandonensis 'Longwood Blue'

Caryopteris x clandonensis ‘Longwood Blue’

Prune Callicarpa (Beautyberry) to about 6 inches.

Beautyberry

Callicarpa americana (American Beautyberry) growing wild at Jamestown

Prune Sasanqua Camellias (fall and early winter blooming Camellias) now, only if needed to shape or reduce size.

“Pinch” or hand prune Boxwood to thin and open up the plant.  This allows light and air inside so that the plant can produce leaves along the interior surfaces. This is especially important to protect the Boxwood from Boxwood Blight.  The Virginia Coopertative Extension ServiceNorth Carolina State University and Saunders Brothers Nursery are good resources for keeping up with the latest on the blight.  If planting Boxwood, be sure to ask your landscaper or the nursery whether the Boxwood come from a nursery that adheres to the Boxwood Blight Cleanliness Program.

If your Poet’s Laurel (Danae racemosa) has not been pruned in a few years, cut it back to the ground.  Poet’s Laurel produces new growth from the earth, not from other branches.  You can continue to do the full cut back (the Frank Cut) every spring; you can do the Frank cut every 2 or 3 springs; or you can just cut out the oldest third of growth every spring.

DO NOT prune any spring-flowering shrubs or trees until after they bloom!  Exception:  Dead or diseased branches can always be removed.

Camellia

Camellia Japonica blooms in late winter or spring, depending on the cultivar. It should not be pruned until after it finishes blooming.

Prune Vitex agnus-castus (Chastetree) by cutting suckers back to the ground or back to the intersection with a larger branch.  Remove some large branches to provide a nice, open shape to the small tree/shrub.  You can also cut Vitex way back, if it has gotten out of control.

Vitex

Vitex agnus-castus (Chastetree)

DO NOT COMMIT CRAPE MAIMING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Topping Crape Myrtles does nothing except disfigure the tree.  Feel free to thin Crapes now, by cutting out weaker branches and sprouts.  See my earlier post for more information on proper Crapemyrtle pruning.

ROSES

Prune Shrub Roses to about 12 to 18 inches.  Make cuts about a quarter of an inch above an outward facing bud.  Also remove any branches with diameter less than a pencil, and any diseased or dead branches.

Prune Climbing Roses.  Cut out all dead and diseased canes, any crossing  or spindly  canes and some of the oldest (increasingly less productive) canes. Tie the branches to your support.

Climbing rose

‘White Dawn’ Climbing Rose

Begin feeding roses every six weeks throughout the growing season.  While I generally avoid fertilizing plants unless they are showing signs of deficiency, roses are an exception because they are gluttonous feeders.

 OTHER CHORES

Work compost into the soil to keep it healthy and provide a source of nutrition for the plants.

peony in bud

Paeonia lactifolia (Herbaceous Peony) in bud

Apply mulch ONLY if needed. When you do mulch, consider mulching with half or all compost or a layer of shredded leaves and another inch of finely ground mulch.  If the mulch applied earlier has not broken down, do not apply more.  Sometimes, overzealous mulching leads to an impenetrable mat that traps moisture, thus inviting disease.  Rake loose the existing mulch to allow air and rain through to the soil.  Also, be sure not to lay the new mulch too thick — especially in perennial beds.

PLEASE DO NOT volcano mulch around trees! Volcano mulch is the term used to describe mulch piled up in a big mound around a tree.  When mulch rests against a tree trunk, it traps moisture, softening the trunk and inviting pests and disease.  Over time, the tree will decline and die. Richmond Tree Stewards recommend the 3x3x3 rule:  no more than 3 inches of mulch, in a 3 foot wide circle, stopping 3 inches from the trunk.

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Helleborus foetidus (Stinking Hellebore) emerging in late winter

The opening of the first buds, and the resurrection of plants that looked to be dead, fill the gardener with an enthusiasm that is as perennial as the season.”  Elizabeth Lawrence,  A Southern Garden

MY (ROUGHLY) TEN FAVORITE DROUGHT TOLERANT PLANTS

It’s been a tough summer and fall for thirsty plants. As a gardener with no irrigation, I’m acutely aware of rainfall accumulation.  My rain gauge has been a lonely instrument this year.  Richmond is more than 8 inches below its normal annual rainfall.

One of the few benefits of no irrigation is that I observe over a long period of time how different plants react to drought. Over the last several years, I’ve developed a list of plants that I personally consider extremely drought tolerant.  These are plants in my yard that pretty much never get hit by the sprinkler.

Before I roll out my list, I must stress one very important caveat:  EVERY PLANT needs water to get established.  The first year is the most crucial, but the second is also important. Observation is the key.  When you are responsible for dragging a hose around your yard in periods without much rain, you get to know your plants really well.  Take note in the years after planting to see when the “drought tolerant” plants begin to hold their own in dry periods.  Then you will know that they’ve earned their drought tolerant status.

So here they are:  the slightly more than 10 most draught-tolerant plants in my garden :

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Japanese Anemone (Anemone japonica ‘Honorine Jobert’)

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Limelight Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight).  H. paniculata ‘Tardiva’ is also draught tolerant.  These are exceptions to the genus Hydrangea, which otherwise requires significant hydration (thus the name).

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Catmint (Nepeta ‘Walkers Low’)

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Hosta (here ‘Frances Williams) and Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum odoratum variegatum)

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Camellia — both Sasanqua (fall/winter blooming) and Japanese (late winter/spring blooming).  Spring blooming Camellia needs some shade to stay drought tolerant.

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Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis) and Boxwood (Buxus, generally)

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Peony (Paeonia).

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Poet’s Laurel (Danae racemosa)

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Pieris (Pieris japonica ‘Purity’).  Takes awhile to get established, then completely self-sufficient.

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Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)

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