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BEFORE AND AFTER: THE ENGLISH GARDEN

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Before and Afters are an effective tool to help gardeners  see the possibilities for transformations in their own garden spaces. This B and A  takes me back several years to a memorable collaboration with Ben and Loretta English.  Ben and Loretta, who have great insight and taste, brought out the best in all of those who renovated the Englishes’ gardens and they were an absolute  delight to work with.

THE FRONT YARD

The front renovation began with a focus on the front door.  Loretta, who has a keen eye for design and a great sense of scale and proportion, felt that the front entrance needed a stronger presence to balance the facade, and so framed the door with a deeper coved hood.  Taking a cue from this enhancement, we  took the opportunity to add a broad, generous landing and a  U-shaped drive to further open up the entry.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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The landing is paved with select bluestone in a stacked stone herringbone pattern, and bordered by brick.  A small boxwood hedge (Buxus ‘Justin Brouwer’) and Small Periwinkle (Vinca minor) frame the landing.

Planting a U drive’s island can be tricky.  Rarely is the island on axis with the front door. Here, we planted an S curved laurel hedge (Prunus laurocerasus ‘Otto Luyken’), the apex of one curve in line with the center of the front door, with sweeps of hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Nikko Blue’) nestled in the curves.  On the street side, we planted a ground plane of pachysandra (Pachysandra terminals).

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We paved the driveway in brown crusher run and edged the driveway in cobblestone, with a cobblestone apron at the street’s entrance.

To make way for the drive, we removed a  a magnolia, and added a brick wall to hide the service and parking area.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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We softened the edges of the house by planting Crapemyrtles (Lagerstroemia indica ‘Natchez’) on the two corners of the house. We kept the foundation planting simple, with a mass of evergreen Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis), Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides ‘Frostproof’), and Camellia sasanqua. White Dawn climbing rose drapes over the new wall.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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On the east side, we separated the foundation plantings from those along the east side of the  driveway with a stepping stone path.  We loosened up the plant palette with Oak Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Prague Viburnum (Viburnum pragense), Variegated Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum odoratum variegatum)  and ferns.  We planted Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum) at each entrance to the driveway.

THE BACKYARD

We had a lot of fun in the back.  The Englishes had decided to add a pool, and Ben asked whether we could use the excavated dirt to add elevation to the garden.  Well.  That was music to my ears.  I LOVE to use the slightest grade change as an opportunity to add  garden elements such as walls and steps.   These features transform a garden, giving it structure, definition and depth, and it drove  the design for the Englishes’ backyard.

We divided the garden into three north-south sections, and then within those sections created several distinct spaces.  The gardens are arranged using strong axial lines, both north-south and east-west, so that each space beckons from another.

The East Section

The pool and  pool house were placed in the furtherest east section, and we left it the same grade as the house, as we needed to tie in circulation with little room to maneuver. We used select bluestone in a diamond pattern for the pool terrace, and edged it with brick, to complement the brick house.

BEFORE:

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DURING:

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AFTER:

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The steps between the pool terrace and the raised garden are wide and expansive, with deep bluestone treads and short  stacked-stone risers.  Small periwinkle (Vinca minor) softens the hardscape and Russian Sage  (Perovskia atriplicifolia ‘Little Spike’) spills over the stacked stone wall.

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A view toward the pool house from the central garden lawn.

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Standing on the pool terrace looking north toward the house.  We added a stepping stone path, with grass joints, to lead from the pool to the central courtyard. 

The Central Section

The central garden is divided into a lower and an upper garden.  The lower garden is a formal courtyard, which acts as the  central hub, connecting the pool, the garage, the upper garden, and the arbored terrace.

BEFORE:

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The beloved Brewster.

DURING:

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AFTER:

img_2731The new brick garage (which replaced the wood shed) and brick wall provide a sense of enclosure for the backyard. The planting beds are edged in brick in what I call a Gillette border.

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Looking east,  toward the pool.  The central parterre is edged in Boxwood (Buxus ‘Justin Brouwer’), and filled with tulips in spring and Catmint (Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’ ) in late spring, summer and fall.

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Looking south, toward the upper lawn, above.   The stacked stone retaining walls and broad bluestone steps are centered on one sweeping shallow radius.   Loretta found the gorgeous urn, perfect in scale and patina, to place on the central axis.

Running with Ben’s idea to use the excavated pool dirt to create elevation, we built stone walls on three sides to create a raised lawn and borders, about three feet above the otherwise very flat grade.  Gently arced steps frame the upper garden and lead to the central courtyard.  The upper garden’s expansive central lawn is flanked by perennial borders, and punctuated by an allee of Winterking Hawthorn. The Hawthorns’ branches are covered in red berries in fall and winter. Steps lead to the pool to the east, and to the informal garden and garage to the west.

BEFORE:

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DURING:

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AFTER:

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Looking south along the central axis of the garden, toward the terminus bordered by existing American Hollies (Ilex opaca).  We added Limelight Hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’) flanked by Chastetree (Vitex agnus-castus).  Loretta found the rustic bench, and we placed it at the south end of the lawn.

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Looking south west, from the pool terrace.  Along this same axis are steps that bisect with the tuteur and lead to the more informal west garden and the garage.

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Looking northeast, the perennial border in full bloom with Siberian Iris (Iris siberica ‘Caesar’s Brother’), Catmint (Nepeta x ‘Walker’s Low’), Peonies (Paeonia latifolia), and False Indigo (Baptisia australis).

The West Section

The west section was divided into three spaces.  First, the Englishes replaced a small shed with a 2 story garage. We placed an irregular stepping stone path parallel to the garage, where it terminates at a wood tuteur planted with Confederate Jasmine  (Trachelospermum jasminoides). To the east of the tuteur are steps that lead to the upper lawn and continue to the pool. To the west is a path to the informal garden, where we filled the planting beds with the plants we dug up during the renovation.

BEFORE:

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The Englishes had little screen from their neighbors, above, and from the parking area, below, before  the renovation.

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DURING:

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AFTER:

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The stepping stone path leads to the nexus of the entrances to the central upper garden on the left, and the informal garden, on the right, which can be seen in the background.

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The iron grillwork that Loretta found at Caravati’s softens the brick facade of the garage.  White Dawn climbing rose are supported by the ironwork.  The  silver foliage of Lamb’s Ears (Stachys byzantina ‘Silver Carpet’) and Bearded Iris (Iris germanica) play off the cool colors of the stone.  Ben installed “temporary” fencing to protect the garden from their puppy’s shenanigans.

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Spirea (Spiraea japonica ‘Anthony Waterer’) spills over the path from the tuteur to the informal garden.

The Englishes have generously shared their renovated garden with many, hosting their kids’ teammates and friends and opening for garden tours benefitting the community. Their vision and beautiful taste shaped the garden, and our collaboration with the talented and hard-working  masons, carpenters, general contractors and, most especially, the late great landscaper William Lowe, ensured that the plans were faithfully and skillfully executed, resulting in a well-loved garden.

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Many of the AFTER photographs (the good ones — you can tell the difference!) used in this blog were taken by the uber-talented Helen Horsley.

PLANTS THAT WELCOME THE DELUGE

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After the gazillionth inch of rain along the east coast, thanks to a tango being performed by Joaquin and a pesky nor’easter, it seemed appropriate to fire off a list of plants that will tolerate, and even welcome, wet soil.  I took the picture above while visiting Camden, Maine during one of its wettest months  on record.  Ferns and Hostas are perfectly happy under such conditions.

 

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Magnolia grandiflora (Southern Magnolia) is native to Virginia.

 

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Magnolia virginiana (Sweetbay Magnolia) is native to Virginia.

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Betula nigra (River Birch) is native to Virginia.

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Hydrangea (Hydra=water), with the exception of Oakleaf Hydrangea, tolerates wet soil.  Above is the classic Hydrangea macrophylla.

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Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ (Smooth Hydrangea); the species is native to Virginia.

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Hydrangea paniculata ‘Tardiva’ (Limelight and Pee Gee are other cultivars of this species)

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Calycanthus floridus (Eastern Allspice) is native to Virginia.

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Callicarpa americana (American Beautyberry) is native to Virginia.  I took this picture along a trail on Jamestown Island.

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Aronia arbutifolia (Chokeberry) is native to Virginia.

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Tradescantia virginiana (Virginia Spiderwort) is native to Virginia.

I took this picture on Richmond’s wild and natural Belle Isle.

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Myosotis sylvatica (Forget-Me-Not)

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Iris siberica (Siberian Iris).  Many Iris, including the native Iris versicolor (Blue Flag Iris)

will tolerate continuous bog conditions.

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Panicum virgatum (Switchgrass) is native to Virginia.

DSC_0291Mertensia virginica (Virginia Bluebell) is native to Virginia.

DSC_0293This rain garden (installed by Capital Trees as part of the renovation of  Great Shiplock Park) filters  polluted storm water from the park’s parking lot before it enters the historic James River and Kanawha Canal.  Native plants, including Eutrochium purpureum (Joe Pye Weed), Chasmanthium latifolium (Northern Sea Oats) and Panicum virgatum (Switch Grass) thrive in the garden.  Ilex glabra (Inkberry), Itea virginica (Virginia Sweetspire), Clethra alnifolia (Sweet Pepperbush) and Callicarpa americana (Beautyberry) — all native shrubs that tolerate wet soil– border the state-of-the-art biofiltration planters.

LATE SPRING GARDEN CHORES

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Most spring bulbs are spent, and spring flowering shrubs are shedding their blooms.

Thus, It’s time to:

PRUNE

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Prune spring-flowering shrubs, if needed.

Most shrubs and trees that flower in spring (like the Vanhouteii Spirea above, Lilac, Azaleas, and Deutzias, to name a few) begin to set their flower buds for next spring within 4 to 6 weeks of blooming.  Thus, if you wait to prune the plant after that 4 to 6 week window, you will be cutting off next year’s blooms.

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Only prune your shrubs if they need it to control size or to shape the plant (e.g., limb up or espalier) or to remove dead or diseased branches.  Use hand pruners, and be sure to take a branch all the way back to a lateral branch (vs. shearing all of the top growth).  Camellias (above) need very little pruning, as they have a graceful growing habit.  Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius, below) is a straggly grower, and can use more help.  Mock Oranges are best planted toward the back of a mixed border where they recede after blooming.

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DON’T prune summer flowering shrubs, such as Gardenia, Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii), Caryopteris and Beautyberry (Callicarpa).

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Cut back dying foliage of spring-blooming bulbs, including Daffodils, Tulips and Hyacinth.  Capital Trees members Mary Anne Burke and Noni Baruch, above, deadhead the Daffodils planted along Dock Stree in Shockoe Bottom. Spanish Bluebells (beautifully photographed below by Helen Horseley) multiply over the years.

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Photo by Helen Horsley

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Cut out all rogue branches on your Lady Banks Rose (above). You can tell a rogue branch -or sucker – because it is thicker, straighter, and produces no lateral branches.

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Continue to train other climbing roses. Don’t be shy about removing many older canes to allow for a lighter, more elegant climber, like the one in Charleston, above.

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Continue to deadhead repeat-blooming shrub roses. Some of the heritage roses at Hollywood Cemetery, including the Doswell Rose, above, are still blooming.  I did a blog post recently about the incredible treasure these roses are at the historic cemetery.

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Remove spent flower stalks from perennials, such as Bearded Iris (Iris germanica), above, and Peonies (Paeonia), below. Some Bearded Iris will bloom again in late summer or early fall.

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Aster and zinnia

Photo by Melinda Hardy

Pinch back mid to late summer blooming perennials that tend to get leggy, such as Asters (above), Bog Sage, Daisies, Rudbeckia.  This will prompt the plants to grow lateral stems and create a bushier plant with more blooms.

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Keep Vinca minor (pictured above) and other aggressive ground covers pruned for a neat appearance.

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Cut back to the ground any unproductive Hydrangea branches. An unproductive branch is one that has no or little growth, or is brittle to the touch.

 

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Prune Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris)  after it finishes blooming. Prune other climbers to keep shape.

Climbing Hydrangea is not just for walls — it’s fun to let it scamper across a bed or a low stone wall.

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Cut to the ground browning leaves  and spent flower stalks of Lenten Rose.  Both Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis, above) and Stinking Hellebore (Helleborus foetidus, below) will generously self seed if not heavily mulched.

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Prune evergreens, if needed.

Evergreen shrubs, such as Hollies, Laurels and Ligustrum, tend to generate uneven growth that can be straggly looking.  It is fine to prune these shrubs now to shape them.  A couple of caveats:  don’t prune Magnolias or other evergreen shrubs blooming now, if you want to enjoy their blooms.  Only prune Sasanqua (fall-blooming) Camellias in early spring before they begin forming flower buds.

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Prune multi-branch trees, such as Sweetbay Magnolias (Magnolia virginiana, above),  Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) and Serviceberry (Amelanchier, spp.) to open up the plant and assist in developing a beautiful shape, by cutting out any volunteer sports and straggly branches. You can also cut suckers and stragglies of Chaste Tree (Vitex agnus-castus), but don’t cut back main branches, as they will be blooming in the next month.

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Prune Wisteria before it sets next year’s flower buds.

PLANT

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Plant summer vegetables and herbs

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Consider planting Morning Glory seeds for old-fashioned late summer blooms.  The vine twines through Japanese Anemone, above.

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If you have a water garden, consider planting a Lotus (the native Nelumbo lutea).

I’d given mine up for dead and yanked the empty pot (empty except for mud) this spring.  As usual, my procrastination (laziness?) saved a life.  I went to toss the pot last week and, lo and behold, new Lotus leaves were emerging.  Can’t wait to see it bloom like it did last summer, above.

Fill your containers with summer annuals,which will reward you until a hard frost.  Be sure to regularly fertilize, as frequent watering depletes the nutrients from the soil. The window box below, on Meeting Street in Charleston, is filled with Begonia and Fern.

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Add annuals to beds to replace plants that have gone dormant. New Orleans gardeners love to plant Caladiums in their otherwise evergreen borders for a shot of contrast.  You can also plant masses of Lantana or Plumbago for color all summer.  If you are planting in beds containing bulbs or dormant perennials, be sure not to disturb them.

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 EDGE

Edge your beelines and lawn borders.  The person who tends the garden below is on top of it!  Maintaining an edge between the lawn and pavement and between the lawn and planting beds helps keep the shape of the beds and prevents weeds from spreading.

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WEED!!!!!!!!!!!!

EARLY SPRING GARDEN CHORES

For those restless gardeners who, like me, are checking their gardens daily for signs of life, grab your pruners and head outside, because it’s time to:

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Magnolia denudata (Butterfly Magnolia)

Cut back Liriope with the lawn mower or string trimmer.

Cut back to the ground any Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalist)  or Christmas Rose (Helleborus  niger) leaves that are browning or leathery. Most old leaves announce themselves by collapsing flat on the ground — just as we do at the end of the day!

New growth and flowers should already be emerging.

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Helleborus niger (Christmas Rose)

Prune to about 2 inches high all perennials not cut back in fall.

Exceptions: cut back Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage) to about 6 inches, cut back Salvia microphylla/greggii (very similar, often confused)  to about 4 inches.  These are both woody perennials.

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A perennial bed at Cheekwood Garden in Nashville

DO NOT cut back Tree Peonies!  They bloom on old growth.

Remove dead and discolored Stachys byzantina foliage (Lamb’s Ears).

Prune ornamental grasses all the way back.

Don’t prune before early March, since the winter color and movement are two of their best features.

Exception:  Try raking, rather than pruning, Muhly Grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris), for thicker new growth.

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Ornamental grasses along the High Line in New York City

Prune dying leaves of evergreen ferns (many of the fronds still look great — I can’t usually bring myself to cut these just yet).

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Dryopteris erythrosora (Autumn Fern) fiddlers emerge alongside Digitalis grandiflora (Foxglove)

 HYDRANGEAS

Prune Annabelle Hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens), if you did not do so in the fall. by cutting back all branches to 6-12 inches high.

Unlike the Mophead Hydrangeas, Annabelles bloom on new wood.

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Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’

You can still prune the everblooming Hydrangeas, as they bloom on new and old wood (you will be cutting out some of the flowering buds that have set on the old wood).

You can also prune Hydrangea paniculata now (includes Pee Gee, Limelight, Tardiva cultivars).

LIMELIGHT:  If you want a full, bushy plant, cut back Limelights to about 2 or 3 feet every spring. Also prune all the little spindly branchlets.  If you are training your Limelight into a tree, then merely thin the weaker branches.

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Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’

TARDIVA: Tardiva has a much nicer growth habit than Limelight and Pee Gee. It naturally grows into a tapering multi-branched small tree. To maintain the multi-branch form, just deadhead last year’s flower heads and any small spindly branches that detract from the form you are trying to attain.

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Hydrangea paniculata ‘Tardiva’

You may snap off last year’s flower heads of old-fashioned Mopheads, Lacecaps and Oak Leaf Hydrangeas, and you may cut out the oldest unproductive branches, but do not give these Hydrangeas an overall haircut right now.  They bloom on old wood.

Work aluminum sulphate into the soil in which blue Hydrangea are growing, to make the blooms bluer.  Add lime to make the blooms pinker.

OTHER SHRUBS AND TREES

Prune Buddleia davidii (Butterfly Bush) to about 2  feet and remove spindly and dead branches, if you want a full bushy plant.  If you want a  Butterfly Bush that resembles a small multi-trunk tree, only cut out straggly branches. Prune the dwarf Buddleias to about 2 feet wide and one foot tall.

Cut back Caryopteris x clandonensis (Bluebeard) to about 18 inches.

Caryopteris x clandonensis 'Longwood Blue'

Caryopteris x clandonensis ‘Longwood Blue’

Prune Callicarpa (Beautyberry) to about 6 inches.

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Callicarpa americana (American Beautyberry) growing wild at Jamestown

Prune Sasanqua Camellias (fall and early winter blooming Camellias) now, only if needed to shape or reduce size.

“Pinch” or hand prune Boxwood to thin and open up the plant.  This allows light and air inside so that the plant can produce leaves along the interior surfaces. This is especially important to protect the Boxwood from Boxwood Blight.  The Virginia Coopertative Extension ServiceNorth Carolina State University and Saunders Brothers Nursery are good resources for keeping up with the latest on the blight.  If planting Boxwood, be sure to ask your landscaper or the nursery whether the Boxwood come from a nursery that adheres to the Boxwood Blight Cleanliness Program.

If your Poet’s Laurel (Danae racemosa) has not been pruned in a few years, cut it back to the ground.  Poet’s Laurel produces new growth from the earth, not from other branches.  You can continue to do the full cut back (the Frank Cut) every spring; you can do the Frank cut every 2 or 3 springs; or you can just cut out the oldest third of growth every spring.

DO NOT prune any spring-flowering shrubs or trees until after they bloom!  Exception:  Dead or diseased branches can always be removed.

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Camellia Japonica blooms in late winter or spring, depending on the cultivar. It should not be pruned until after it finishes blooming.

Prune Vitex agnus-castus (Chastetree) by cutting suckers back to the ground or back to the intersection with a larger branch.  Remove some large branches to provide a nice, open shape to the small tree/shrub.  You can also cut Vitex way back, if it has gotten out of control.

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Vitex agnus-castus (Chastetree)

DO NOT COMMIT CRAPE MAIMING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Topping Crape Myrtles does nothing except disfigure the tree.  Feel free to thin Crapes now, by cutting out weaker branches and sprouts.  See my earlier post for more information on proper Crapemyrtle pruning.

ROSES

Prune Shrub Roses to about 12 to 18 inches.  Make cuts about a quarter of an inch above an outward facing bud.  Also remove any branches with diameter less than a pencil, and any diseased or dead branches.

Prune Climbing Roses.  Cut out all dead and diseased canes, any crossing  or spindly  canes and some of the oldest (increasingly less productive) canes. Tie the branches to your support.

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‘White Dawn’ Climbing Rose

Begin feeding roses every six weeks throughout the growing season.  While I generally avoid fertilizing plants unless they are showing signs of deficiency, roses are an exception because they are gluttonous feeders.

 OTHER CHORES

Work compost into the soil to keep it healthy and provide a source of nutrition for the plants.

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Paeonia lactifolia (Herbaceous Peony) in bud

Apply mulch ONLY if needed. When you do mulch, consider mulching with half or all compost or a layer of shredded leaves and another inch of finely ground mulch.  If the mulch applied earlier has not broken down, do not apply more.  Sometimes, overzealous mulching leads to an impenetrable mat that traps moisture, thus inviting disease.  Rake loose the existing mulch to allow air and rain through to the soil.  Also, be sure not to lay the new mulch too thick — especially in perennial beds.

PLEASE DO NOT volcano mulch around trees! Volcano mulch is the term used to describe mulch piled up in a big mound around a tree.  When mulch rests against a tree trunk, it traps moisture, softening the trunk and inviting pests and disease.  Over time, the tree will decline and die. Richmond Tree Stewards recommend the 3x3x3 rule:  no more than 3 inches of mulch, in a 3 foot wide circle, stopping 3 inches from the trunk.

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Helleborus foetidus (Stinking Hellebore) emerging in late winter

The opening of the first buds, and the resurrection of plants that looked to be dead, fill the gardener with an enthusiasm that is as perennial as the season.”  Elizabeth Lawrence,  A Southern Garden

MY (ROUGHLY) TEN FAVORITE DROUGHT TOLERANT PLANTS

It’s been a tough summer and fall for thirsty plants. As a gardener with no irrigation, I’m acutely aware of rainfall accumulation.  My rain gauge has been a lonely instrument this year.  Richmond is more than 8 inches below its normal annual rainfall.

One of the few benefits of no irrigation is that I observe over a long period of time how different plants react to drought. Over the last several years, I’ve developed a list of plants that I personally consider extremely drought tolerant.  These are plants in my yard that pretty much never get hit by the sprinkler.

Before I roll out my list, I must stress one very important caveat:  EVERY PLANT needs water to get established.  The first year is the most crucial, but the second is also important. Observation is the key.  When you are responsible for dragging a hose around your yard in periods without much rain, you get to know your plants really well.  Take note in the years after planting to see when the “drought tolerant” plants begin to hold their own in dry periods.  Then you will know that they’ve earned their drought tolerant status.

So here they are:  the slightly more than 10 most draught-tolerant plants in my garden :

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Japanese Anemone (Anemone japonica ‘Honorine Jobert’)

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Limelight Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight).  H. paniculata ‘Tardiva’ is also draught tolerant.  These are exceptions to the genus Hydrangea, which otherwise requires significant hydration (thus the name).

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Catmint (Nepeta ‘Walkers Low’)

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Hosta (here ‘Frances Williams) and Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum odoratum variegatum)

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Camellia — both Sasanqua (fall/winter blooming) and Japanese (late winter/spring blooming).  Spring blooming Camellia needs some shade to stay drought tolerant.

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Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis) and Boxwood (Buxus, generally)

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Peony (Paeonia).

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Poet’s Laurel (Danae racemosa)

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Pieris (Pieris japonica ‘Purity’).  Takes awhile to get established, then completely self-sufficient.

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Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)

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