SAVE THE INSECTS — AND THE WORLD!

Ok, that sounds a bit cheeky, but it is not an exaggeration. We need a robust insect population to survive.  Why am I writing about the importance of insects on a garden design blog?  Because the world’s insect population has fallen precipitously in recent years, and those of us who garden can do our part to  help restore the balance. 

 

Insects are critical to  the earth’s ecosystem in many ways. First, as pollinators, they are a necessary part of food production. At least a third of all agricultural crops are dependent on insect pollination for production.  Strawberries, apples, and tomatoes are just a few of  the foods reliant on insect pollination.

Perennials that draw pollinating insects are planted alongside vegetables in Gravetye Manor’s  kitchen garden.

Second, they are a tasty and essential part of the diets of many birds, fish and animals.

A Great Blue Heron hangs out along the Capital Trees Low Line. Herons eat fish, and fish eat insects.

Third,  as Professor Anne Sverdrup-Thygeson writes in the Wall Street Journal (subscription required), “among the essential services that insects perform for us and the planet is waste management. As life ends for plants and animals of all sizes, from midges to moose, somebody or something has to break up and eliminate the dead organic matter. It might not be a hotshot job, but the processes of decomposition and decay are critical to life on Earth.”

 

A butterfly feeds on a rotting fig.

 

Insects will contribute to the necessary decomposition of the apples that fall to the ground. Rampisham Hill Farm, Dorset, England.

Here are a few fascinating statistics cited  by  Sverdrup-Thygeson, a professor of conservation biology at the Norwegian University of Life Sciences, and the author of the book Buzz, Sting, Bite:  Why We Need Bugs :

  • While  humans have doubled our population in the past 40 years, the number of insects has been reduced by almost half, according to a 2014 report in the journal Science.
  • Three quarters of all known plant and animal species on this planet are insects. Those giant quantities help to keep nature in balance, so anything that affects them ultimately affects us.
  • Herbivores eat just 10% of all plant production.  90% is left lying on the ground — impressive amounts of protein and carbohydrates in need of recycling. Insects eat the rotten remains, which not only clears the ground of dead plants and animals, but also returns the nutrients to the soil. Without it, new life could not grow.

Shrubs, trees, and wildflowers border this field, providing pollinators for the crops, shelter and food for birds and wildlife, and erosion control to protect streams.

 

WHAT WE CAN DO TO HELP

  1. Plant more trees, shrubs, vines and perennials on your property.  Shoot for making a large percentage of those plants native, as those are the plants our native insects rely on.   Reduce the amount of mown lawn, and increase planting beds and meadows. Consider planting fewer “double” flower cultivars, as these tend to contain little nectar, and are difficult for pollinators to access.  Leave as many wild, undisturbed areas as possible to support wildlife.

Native Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica) spread under a Crapemyrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) at Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden.

 

This four-season border at Dumbarton Oaks includes native and non-native perennials, and, importantly, provides nectar, pollen, food, and shelter year- round.

 

Native Blue Flag Iris (Iris versicolor) and Sensitive Fern (Onoclea sensibilis) are planted in a large swath.

 

The owner of this Little Compton, Rhode Island garden limits the amount of mowed lawn, allowing meadow to grow along the edge of Brigg’s Marsh, which filters pollutants, limits erosion, and attracts  and protects insects.

 

 

Perennials and grasses are cultivated in a meadow planting at Sakonnet Garden. Owners John Gwynne and Mikel Folcarelli continuously study and experiment with the best methods of providing a biodiverse habitat for specific species of birds native to the area.

 

2. Reconsider what it means to have a cultivated garden.  For those who love a manicured garden, try to throw a little caution to the wind and become a bit less tidy.   Do not cut back perennials and grasses until late winter or early spring,and leave as many wild, undisturbed areas as possible, allowing wildlife to use the plants for shelter, food and nesting material.  

Capital Trees leaves the native Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum) throughout the winter along the Low Line and at Great Shiplock Park in the rain garden.

 

Members of the Groundworks RVA Green Team cut back the Joe Pye Weed and grasses in the rain garden at Great Shiplock Park in late winter.

 

Capital One employees volunteer their time with Capital Trees to cut back shrubs and perennials in late winter. Capital Trees leaves most plants unpruned throughout the fall and winter to provide food, shelter and nesting material for wildlife at Great Shiplock Park and the Low Line.

 

3.  Cease or minimize the  use of pesticides. Many of you have heard me say that I’m a Darwinist gardener.  I began as such because I just didn’t have the time or inclination to deal with high-maintenance  plants that could not thrive without my special attention or intervention.   As it turns out, my laziness paid off, as this is also the most environmentally sound way to garden. Pesticides are not selective.  They kill whatever they come into contact with.  Spray a plant to kill one pest (or the entire property to kill mosquitos), and you kill other species that come into contact with the poison, thus affecting the entire ecosystem. 

Bees feast on a Poppy in the Gravetye Manor kitchen garden.

 

Gravetye Manor leaves the fields unmowed throughout the growing season, cutting a path near the water’s edge.

 

4.  For those with larger properties, including farms, offset the monoculture of crops by allowing wide buffers to border the fields, and increase the amount of land dedicated to meadows, hedgerows, verges or tree canopy.

Flora and Ed allow grasses and wildflowers to grow  through much of their property in Lasham, England. Flora owns a cooking school on the property and grows some of the food used for her delicious meals.

 

5.  If your property includes woodlands, allow some fallen trees and branches to decay, providing  homes for insects. 

Woodland plants grow alongside the decaying tree stumps in Sakonnet Garden.

 

6.  Encourage your locality and state to  increase conservation and wilderness areas;   to  plant more shrubs, trees and perennials in public parks and increase the matrix of green spaces throughout the city and region; to join the verge movement, by decreasing the frequency of mowing in roads’ rights-of-way during the growing season. 

Native Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia) grows at the edge of the CSX viaduct along the Capital Trees Low Line and Virginia Capital Trail.

 

Perennials and native trees grow along the Capital Trees Low Line and Virginia Capital Trail in Richmond’s Shockoe Bottom.

 

James River Association’s Amber Ellis leads a group of volunteers planting native woodland perennials at the James River Park System’s Chapel Island. JRA and Capital Trees work with the JRPS Invasive Plant Task Force to restore native habitat throughout the James River Park System.

 

In England, Plantlife is leading the charge to encourage localities to allow roadside verges to go unmown duirng the growing season. Let’s do the same in our own localities. It saves the government money and increases the amount of public space providing wildlife habitat.

 

How cool is this insect house at Sakonnet Garden?  By using a variety of materials, the insect house (also called an insect hotel) attracts a wide range of insects. 

 

You can just see the wheels turning as Hylah Boyd, who forwarded me the Sverdrup-Thygeson article, surveys the landscape.  The Capital Trees Board member has recommended that  boy scouts and other volunteer groups build insect houses in Richmond’s parks and public landscapes. Capital Trees is exploring the possibility of building one along the Low Line.

 

In conclusion, I again quote Sverdrup-Thygeson: “high biological diversity makes ecosystems more resistant and resilient.  . .  A varied global landscape provides many more opportunities for the flourishing of complex insect life — and everything that depends on it, including us.”

 

 

 

Let’s do our part to make sure that we can continue to enjoy fantastical steel dandelions (at the Royal Horticulture Society’s Wisley Garden) as well as nature’s version.

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PLANTS TO GROW FOR BEAUTIFUL GARDENS AND STUNNING ARRANGEMENTS

With the Garden Club of Virginia’s annual Historic Garden Week tours upon us, here are a few suggestions for  plants you can grow and use in arrangements like those  you see on tour.  I highlight four arrangements here that were created for last year’s tour by the talented gardeners and arrangers Susan Robertson, Margy Brown, Ida Farinholt, Sally Ellington and Gretchn Japhet.  Almost all of the plants used in the arrangements came from their own and others’ gardens.

The mantel arrangement above is like a Virginia spring garden that snuck indoors.  The backdrop of the stone wall, rough hewn timber mantel and simple galvanized metal container is perfect for the natural arrangement displaying many native plants.  Included in the arrangement are false indigo (Baptisia australis, native), kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa — it’s cousin, Cornus florida, is native), lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis), dixie wood fern (Dryopteris x australis, native), Autumn Fern (Dryopteris erythrosora), the foliage of coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens, native) and Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii).

Kousa dogwood was used in the arrangement, but the native flowering dogwood, which flowers earlier and before it leafs out, is a fantastic choice for your garden.  Kousa dogwood, native to China, supports no insect herbivores.  Our native dogwood supports 117 species of moth and caterpillar as well as many other insects. http://www.bringingnaturehome.net/gardening-for-life.html

False Indigo, with its sweet pea-like flowers, is native, prefers part sun, and is attractive for its foliage and bloom.

Lenten Rose is one of my favorite plants.  It is evergreen, the blooms (actually the bracts), persist for up to three or four months, and it happily, but not aggressively, self-seeds. It is happiest in part shade or shade.

The native Dixie wood fern and the young (red) fiddlers of autumn fern were used in the arrangement.  Another lovely fern, which is native, is Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina).  It is more delicate than most ferns, but provides an airy sweep in the garden.

The greens in the arrangement above allow the spectacular peonies (Paeonia latifolia) and bearded iris (Iris germanica) to stand out.  Supporting players are both the native solomon’s seal (Polygonatum  biflorum var. commutatum and it’s variegated cousin (Polygonatum odoratum var. pluriflorum ‘Variegatum’), false indigo, lenten rose, and  blue star (Amsonia tabernaemontana).

The iris used in the arrangement is bearded iris.  Above are two siberian iris cultivars (Iris siberica ‘Caesar’s Brother’ and ‘Butter and Sugar’).   Siberian iris, as well as the native blue flag iris (Iris versicolor) will tolerate wet soil conditions.  The sword-like foliage provides nice structure in the perennial border when the plant is not in bloom.

Amsonia hubrichtii (threadleaf bluestar) is pictured above.  The native Amsonia tabernaemontana (eastern bluestar) is pictured below with the native blue flag iris).  A. hubrichtii has spectacular yellow fall foliage. Amsonias tolerate full sun to part shade, and benefit from having their foliage cut by 1/3 to 1/2 after blooming for less floppy foliage (the foliage will continue to grow).

The native Giant Solomon’s Seal,  Polygonatum biflorum var. commutatum, can be found in Richmond’s James River Park System.  It will tolerate wet soil and prefers shade.

These bottle bud vases are such a great way to remove the stress of arranging and make use of the bounty of the garden at any given time in the growing season.  Early cottage roses and tulips join the catmint, lenten rose and greens for a lovely tableau.Single tulips underplanted with violas.

The roses above are in the gardens of Dumbarton Oaks.  I’m not sure of the species.

The arrangers took advantage of last year’s early spring, using these gorgeous, billowy peonies, and masterly pulling out the subtle deep and soft pinks of the lenten roses and peony buds.

Peonies intermingle happily with catmint, false indigo and boxwood.

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The Cottage Gardens of the Priory Hotel

When in Dorset, England, make your way to the Priory Hotel in Wareham.  The Priory sits quietly along the River Frome in Wareham, and boasts four acres of intoxicating gardens.

 

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I visited in June, at the height of the perennial show.  Below, poppies are just beginning to bloom along the River Frome.

Valerian is ubiquitous in the English countryside.  Here, it grows out of stone walls that contain pockets of soil.

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Peonies, framing the lawn and the river terrace,  are about to burst into bloom.

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The Priory’s gardens are filled with roses.  To support the climbers and other vines. gardeners have constructed beautiful, rustic, sturdy trellises and arbors from local wood.

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The arbors and fence below are made from local raw timbers.

Stonework is the backbone of the Priory’s gardens.  Below, a cast stone bench complements the stone walls and walkway.

Roses cascade over the stone wall and arch, below.

The Brits’ use of plant supports is practical and effective.  Here, simple chicken wire supports sweet peas climbing a wall.

Water features are around every corner.  This one is in a secret courtyard. The geometric stone pond and walkway are softened by pockets of perennials.

Even the garage (pardon, car park!) is charming.

I could get used to poking my head out of this window every morning.

Perennial beds are enclosed by high evergreen hedges with arched entryways.

Other garden rooms are separated  by stone retaining walls, with entrances defined by broad stone steps. We played a mean game of croquet on this lawn just before leaving (kicking and screaming).

Calla lilies grow along the water’s edge.

This staddle stone sits happily along the river, nestled near the ginormous leaves of gunnera.

Campanula scampers up the stone.

The gardeners stake the peonies with bamboo sticks and twine.

They take their composting seriously at the Priory!

The Priory exemplifies English gardening at its best.  A large expanse of property has been crafted into formally laid out rooms, made intimate and alluring through the use of rustic complementary materials and a rich and informal palette of plants.

 

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CHARLESTON’S WINDOW BOXES

Can we all agree that no city does window boxes like Charleston?   Whenever I visit, I prowl the neighborhoods looking for the most recent gorgeous window box plantings. The ever-expanding availability of subtropical and tropical plants in nurseries these days allows those of us in temperate zones to enjoy such exotics in our containers and gardens during the upcoming warm months. I’m hoping that these beautiful Charleston containers will provide inspiration as we enter the “annuals” season.    I apologize in advance that I can’t identify all the plants used in these containers, but I’m giving it a shot!

This cool-toned  box features plumbago, dusty miller, solanum, ligularia, and “Blackie” sweet potato vine.

From cool to hot — The red bloom of the begonia is repeated in the veining of the caladiums, with  variegated ivy tying it all together.

Imagine this streetscape without the creeping fig on the steps and the simple window box (with sweet potato vine and calibrachoa) on the gate.  It would be stark indeed.

The variegated cyclamen and heuchera foliage in the picture above  complement the dark shutters and window box. The spilling conifer and fern add to the dark mood.

This standard Gardenia is set off nicely by the base annual and ivy plantings.

All the window boxes, with the exception of the one above and below, are mounted on a neutral background.  Brick foundation is a bit more challenging, but these boxes pull it off, I think.  Above is a soft range of blues and whites, including  salvia, sweet alyssum,  scaevola, petunia, and maybe some angelonia.

A livelier palette works against this brick foundation. I spy angelonia, calibrachoa, scaevola, solanum, salvia, hibiscus, and caladiums, among other plants.

A simple but effective combination of caladiums, ivy and . . .

Note the ingenious watering mechanism in this window box (above and below).  The cord feeding the box is painted black when against the box, white against the clapboard, then black again as it snakes behind the lattice at the base toward its water source.

 

The window boxes above and below take their cue from the elegant architecture.  No need to compete here with a riot of color.  Plenty of green, with a hint of color, complements the sophisticated facade.

 

I love the one mega-box spanning the three windows — a Mediterranean feel.

The final three photos are of one residence in three different years.  The plant palette takes full advantage of the home’s gray shades.  Above, begonia, fern, setcreasea ‘Purple Queen’ and caldium, among other plants, spill out of the box.

This is so simple, but so effective — white begonias and Kimberly fern.

This year, the box uses succesful plants of the past, then adds Mona Lavender (Plectranthus).

Frost date in Richmond has passed. It’s time to start creating your own masterpieces!

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BEFORE AND AFTER: THE ENGLISH GARDEN

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Before and Afters are an effective tool to help gardeners  see the possibilities for transformations in their own garden spaces. This B and A  takes me back several years to a memorable collaboration with Ben and Loretta English.  Ben and Loretta, who have great insight and taste, brought out the best in all of those who renovated the Englishes’ gardens and they were an absolute  delight to work with.

THE FRONT YARD

The front renovation began with a focus on the front door.  Loretta, who has a keen eye for design and a great sense of scale and proportion, felt that the front entrance needed a stronger presence to balance the facade, and so framed the door with a deeper coved hood.  Taking a cue from this enhancement, we  took the opportunity to add a broad, generous landing and a  U-shaped drive to further open up the entry.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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The landing is paved with select bluestone in a stacked stone herringbone pattern, and bordered by brick.  A small boxwood hedge (Buxus ‘Justin Brouwer’) and Small Periwinkle (Vinca minor) frame the landing.

Planting a U drive’s island can be tricky.  Rarely is the island on axis with the front door. Here, we planted an S curved laurel hedge (Prunus laurocerasus ‘Otto Luyken’), the apex of one curve in line with the center of the front door, with sweeps of hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Nikko Blue’) nestled in the curves.  On the street side, we planted a ground plane of pachysandra (Pachysandra terminals).

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We paved the driveway in brown crusher run and edged the driveway in cobblestone, with a cobblestone apron at the street’s entrance.

To make way for the drive, we removed a  a magnolia, and added a brick wall to hide the service and parking area.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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We softened the edges of the house by planting Crapemyrtles (Lagerstroemia indica ‘Natchez’) on the two corners of the house. We kept the foundation planting simple, with a mass of evergreen Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis), Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides ‘Frostproof’), and Camellia sasanqua. White Dawn climbing rose drapes over the new wall.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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On the east side, we separated the foundation plantings from those along the east side of the  driveway with a stepping stone path.  We loosened up the plant palette with Oak Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Prague Viburnum (Viburnum pragense), Variegated Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum odoratum variegatum)  and ferns.  We planted Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum) at each entrance to the driveway.

THE BACKYARD

We had a lot of fun in the back.  The Englishes had decided to add a pool, and Ben asked whether we could use the excavated dirt to add elevation to the garden.  Well.  That was music to my ears.  I LOVE to use the slightest grade change as an opportunity to add  garden elements such as walls and steps.   These features transform a garden, giving it structure, definition and depth, and it drove  the design for the Englishes’ backyard.

We divided the garden into three north-south sections, and then within those sections created several distinct spaces.  The gardens are arranged using strong axial lines, both north-south and east-west, so that each space beckons from another.

The East Section

The pool and  pool house were placed in the furtherest east section, and we left it the same grade as the house, as we needed to tie in circulation with little room to maneuver. We used select bluestone in a diamond pattern for the pool terrace, and edged it with brick, to complement the brick house.

BEFORE:

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DURING:

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AFTER:

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The steps between the pool terrace and the raised garden are wide and expansive, with deep bluestone treads and short  stacked-stone risers.  Small periwinkle (Vinca minor) softens the hardscape and Russian Sage  (Perovskia atriplicifolia ‘Little Spike’) spills over the stacked stone wall.

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A view toward the pool house from the central garden lawn.

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Standing on the pool terrace looking north toward the house.  We added a stepping stone path, with grass joints, to lead from the pool to the central courtyard. 

The Central Section

The central garden is divided into a lower and an upper garden.  The lower garden is a formal courtyard, which acts as the  central hub, connecting the pool, the garage, the upper garden, and the arbored terrace.

BEFORE:

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The beloved Brewster.

DURING:

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AFTER:

img_2731The new brick garage (which replaced the wood shed) and brick wall provide a sense of enclosure for the backyard. The planting beds are edged in brick in what I call a Gillette border.

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Looking east,  toward the pool.  The central parterre is edged in Boxwood (Buxus ‘Justin Brouwer’), and filled with tulips in spring and Catmint (Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’ ) in late spring, summer and fall.

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Looking south, toward the upper lawn, above.   The stacked stone retaining walls and broad bluestone steps are centered on one sweeping shallow radius.   Loretta found the gorgeous urn, perfect in scale and patina, to place on the central axis.

Running with Ben’s idea to use the excavated pool dirt to create elevation, we built stone walls on three sides to create a raised lawn and borders, about three feet above the otherwise very flat grade.  Gently arced steps frame the upper garden and lead to the central courtyard.  The upper garden’s expansive central lawn is flanked by perennial borders, and punctuated by an allee of Winterking Hawthorn. The Hawthorns’ branches are covered in red berries in fall and winter. Steps lead to the pool to the east, and to the informal garden and garage to the west.

BEFORE:

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DURING:

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AFTER:

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Looking south along the central axis of the garden, toward the terminus bordered by existing American Hollies (Ilex opaca).  We added Limelight Hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’) flanked by Chastetree (Vitex agnus-castus).  Loretta found the rustic bench, and we placed it at the south end of the lawn.

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Looking south west, from the pool terrace.  Along this same axis are steps that bisect with the tuteur and lead to the more informal west garden and the garage.

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Looking northeast, the perennial border in full bloom with Siberian Iris (Iris siberica ‘Caesar’s Brother’), Catmint (Nepeta x ‘Walker’s Low’), Peonies (Paeonia latifolia), and False Indigo (Baptisia australis).

The West Section

The west section was divided into three spaces.  First, the Englishes replaced a small shed with a 2 story garage. We placed an irregular stepping stone path parallel to the garage, where it terminates at a wood tuteur planted with Confederate Jasmine  (Trachelospermum jasminoides). To the east of the tuteur are steps that lead to the upper lawn and continue to the pool. To the west is a path to the informal garden, where we filled the planting beds with the plants we dug up during the renovation.

BEFORE:

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The Englishes had little screen from their neighbors, above, and from the parking area, below, before  the renovation.

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DURING:

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AFTER:

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The stepping stone path leads to the nexus of the entrances to the central upper garden on the left, and the informal garden, on the right, which can be seen in the background.

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The iron grillwork that Loretta found at Caravati’s softens the brick facade of the garage.  White Dawn climbing rose are supported by the ironwork.  The  silver foliage of Lamb’s Ears (Stachys byzantina ‘Silver Carpet’) and Bearded Iris (Iris germanica) play off the cool colors of the stone.  Ben installed “temporary” fencing to protect the garden from their puppy’s shenanigans.

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Spirea (Spiraea japonica ‘Anthony Waterer’) spills over the path from the tuteur to the informal garden.

The Englishes have generously shared their renovated garden with many, hosting their kids’ teammates and friends and opening for garden tours benefitting the community. Their vision and beautiful taste shaped the garden, and our collaboration with the talented and hard-working  masons, carpenters, general contractors and, most especially, the late great landscaper William Lowe, ensured that the plans were faithfully and skillfully executed, resulting in a well-loved garden.

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Many of the AFTER photographs (the good ones — you can tell the difference!) used in this blog were taken by the uber-talented Helen Horsley.